How To Cut Shoe Molding Angles: 89 Tips

Today’s topic is How To Cut Shoe Molding Angles. Obviously, you can find a great deal of Shoe Molding Cutter-related content online. The proliferation of online platforms has streamlined our access to information.

There is a connection between the DIY Tips: How to install shoe molding and Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Shoe Molding information. more searching has to be done for How To Join Two Pieces Of Shoe Molding, which will also be related to How To Join Two Pieces Of Shoe Molding.

89 Tips for How To Cut Shoe Molding Angles | How to cut 45 angles in quarter round shoe molding with circular saw?

• Outside corner moulding is cut at a forty-five degree angle and juts out towards the room. It is often used to cover the edges of cabinets or furniture. Outside corner trim may also cover any area where walls meet perpendicularly (at a ninety-degree angle). This trim is mainly decorative and can be painted or stained any color. Use it to give your home a polished look. - Source: Internet
• Make sure that nails always go into the baseboard or other vertical surface, not the floor. It’s a good idea that your brad nailer has a soft rubber tip on it to prevent it from denting the molding as you nail it. You may have to adjust the depth setting on your nailer to get the heads of the brad nails to sink to just below the surface of the molding. - Source: Internet
• Paired with baseboard and stained or painted to match your trim, shoe molding (also known as “base shoe”) is a small, thin strip of molding that gives your room a finished look. Shoe molding adds a decorative touch while covering any gaps that might lie between the bottom of baseboard and the floor. Not all types of baseboard are suitable for installing shoe molding, however, so keep reading to find out if this slim trim is right for you—plus how to install it flawlessly. - Source: Internet
• 6. Carve problems away. Don’t be shy! If corners have too much build-up, mark the top of the molding, then drive a 5-and-1 tool into the wall about 1 1/2–2 in. lower than the baseboard. - Source: Internet
• 1. Measure precisely. To avoid drywall mud build-up near the floor, always measure near the top of the molding—if necessary, trace a faint line across the top of the molding. - Source: Internet
• Occasionally, uneven surfaces or bends in the baseboard may make it difficult or impossible for shoe molding to sit tight to the wall. If the trim will be painted, you can hide these irregularities later with caulk. But if it’s stain-grade trim, you should do your best to get it to follow the bends, possibly by adding more nails or by cutting small kerfs in the back of the shoe molding where it needs to make an extra tight bend. - Source: Internet
• Make a tick mark in the same direction on both pieces showing the direction you want to cut the angle. Then, on each piece, cut to the correct side of the mark you made with the combination square–you should be cutting on the side away from the other joint you already cut on each piece. It’s a good idea to cut each piece a little past the mark to start, and then test fit and recut if needed, to ensure that you don’t cut the pieces too short. - Source: Internet
• I cut my copes with an overlapping miter. Rather than make that overlap paper thin—in which case they often break off—I prefer to cut them 1/8-in. thick. With the piece in position, I follow the angle of the miter with my utility knife, and score a line in the previous piece of baseboard. - Source: Internet
• 6. Mark the cutlist. This piece is butt cut on both ends because the inside corner on the left will be covered by a cope cut on the next piece. - Source: Internet
• Once the miter fits well, hold the pieces into place and carefully mark each piece where it will get cut at the other end. If the other end is an inside corner, you just repeat the above steps. If it’s an outside corner, scarf joint, or miter return, follow the appropriate steps below. - Source: Internet
• Next, use your angle finder to measure the outside corner of the baseboard you are wrapping the shoe molding around. Divide the angle in half to get the degrees of each of the miter cuts you need to make. Then, carefully align the miter saw blade with the length mark you made on the back edge of one of the pieces and make the miter cut. Do the same for the miter cut on the other piece. - Source: Internet
• Use the right tools. These include a miter saw to cut the shoe molding, a coping saw to create inside corners, and a finish nailer (or pinner) to attach the molding. Because shoe molding is small and easy to damage, this is one case where a finish nailer or pinner is preferable to a hammer and nails. - Source: Internet
• : This means the molding has not been stained or painted. Choosing the wood species that match your baseboard is essential for a flawless look when staining. When choosing an unfinished molding, it is best to paint or stain the full-length molding pieces first. Prefinished: This means the molding is ready to be installed without additional finish work for you to complete. Prefinished shoe molding helps make the installation quicker. - Source: Internet
• The only caveat to installing shoe molding is that the bottom of the baseboard must be flat to accept the molding. For example, if you want to install standard ¾-inch-high shoe molding, the lower ¾-inch of the baseboard should be flat to allow the shoe molding fits snugly. Some more ornate baseboards feature grooves, slants, and curves within the lower ¾-inch, which would prevent shoe molding from fitting flush against the baseboard. - Source: Internet
• shoe molding is made from a combination of resin and sawdust, and it is similar in price to pine, at $5 to $6 per eight-foot section. MDF is even more flexible than wood, so it’s a good choice if you have a lot of uneven gaps under your baseboard, but while suitable for painting, it doesn’t stain well. Polystyrene shoe molding is the least expensive option, running $2 to $3 per eight-foot section, and it’s meant to be painted. Polystyrene is not as durable, however, as either MDF or wood, and it tends to dent if bumped. - Source: Internet
• Inspect the installation and look for any loose gaps. Adding an extra nail can provide a better grip. The gaps should also be covered up using caulk. Besides painting the moldings to match the hardwood floor and baseboards, use a nail crayon to conceal the shiny nail heads to match the paint. - Source: Internet
• When installing the molding, you will encounter areas where the trims will meet the doors. You need to make an outline return at the end where the molding touches the door frame. Three basic types of returns include bull-nose returns, mitered returns, and a wrap-around. These types are for different room types and requirements. - Source: Internet
• Outside corners typically get cut after the other end of a piece of shoe molding has already been fitted, so if the other end of a piece terminates in an inside corner, a scarf joint, or a miter return, fit that first and continue with the outside corner afterwards. Then, holding the piece tight into the previously fitted joint, make a mark on the back edge of the shoe molding just past the end of the outside corner of the baseboard. While still holding the piece in place, make a tick mark at an angle away from the length mark as a reminder of which direction to make the cut when you take it to the saw. - Source: Internet
• This makes it simpler to cut the coping joints you’ll need for the inside corners. Press shoe molding firmly against the floor and against the baseboard as you nail it in place. The flexibility of the molding makes it easy to do this. - Source: Internet
• Most building supply stores also carry a more traditional shoe molding which is thinner and has a flat face with a detailed top edge. This is a bit more formal looking than quarter-round molding, and would be fitting in a room with colonial-style existing trim. If neither of these are the look you’re going for, check with your local lumber yard for other possible options. - Source: Internet
• For pieces up to 8 ft., measure outside corners precisely; for pieces longer than 12 ft., you can add a little if the molding is thin and flexible. - Source: Internet
• We’re not usually fans of pre-painting molding, but for shoe molding it’s a time saver. Before making any cuts set your molding up on saw horses and spray paint the first coat or two and let dry. Once installed—especially if installing it over carpet—this will make applying the final coat in place much, much easier. - Source: Internet
• Start by using the angle finder to measure the inside corner of the baseboard. Then make opposing 45-degree cuts (or slightly bigger or smaller angles if your angle finder says the corner is more or less than 90 degrees) on two adjacent pieces that will meet at the inside corner and place them into the corner to see how they fit. If the miter is open at the outer edge, carefully cut each of the angles a little shallower, and if the miter is open at the back, cut each angle a little steeper to get a tight fit. - Source: Internet
• In most big-box stores, you can also find polystyrene shoe molding, which is the most affordable option, but it is more flexible and softer than wood or MDF. This means it’s harder to get it to sit flat, and it doesn’t cut or nail quite as cleanly as the other materials. It does come in a smooth white finish that doesn’t need to be painted, though, making it a popular choice when cost and efficiency are the biggest priority. - Source: Internet
• 6. Measure one room at a time. Too many pieces on a cutlist will make the measurements and corner notes too small and difficult to read. You’ll confuse one piece with the next. - Source: Internet
• 1. Measure pieces precisely under six feet. This piece measures 45 1/8 in. and has an inside corner on the left and a butt cut on the right. - Source: Internet
• To make this filler, first make a clean 90-degree cut on the same end of a scrap of shoe molding (i.e., if your miter return is on the right side of the molding you cut to go on the wall, make the 90-degree cut on the right end of the scrap piece). - Source: Internet
• Start by loosening the already installed molding with a utility knife. Slowly push your way and remove the molding. If you rush in, the paint holding the existing molding with the baseboard will get chipped, further increasing the workload. - Source: Internet
• Tip: When cutting between two inside corners, you can cut shoe molding 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch longer than the length of the baseboard to start because the thin molding is flexible enough to bend into place. This will give you some wiggle room for recutting the miter if the angle is slightly off after your initial cut. It will also ensure that the shoe molding fits nice and tight into both corners. - Source: Internet
• The basics of my method are nothing new, instead of doing a miter joint I cut the first piece of base shoe square to the wall and then I cut the profile of the molding into the second piece using a coping saw. To make cutting the profile easier you can trace it onto the front of the piece your cutting as in the images below. Though after cutting a few pieces you should have the general concept of the cut needed. - Source: Internet
• The primary use for shoe molding is to cover gaps where flooring meets adjacent vertical surfaces, especially when the flooring was installed after the baseboard trim and cabinetry. Because shoe molding is so thin, it’s very flexible, which allows it to easily conform to any dips or curves where floors may have sagged, or walls are not completely flat. Even if you don’t have any gaps to hide, shoe molding is a nice way to dress up the baseboard trim in your home. - Source: Internet
• Tall baseboards were popular during the Greek Revival period in the early-to-mid 1800s, but the idea of adding shoe molding to baseboards began in Europe and the United States during the Victorian era of the late 1800s. That’s when mass production of wood trim made the molding readily available. Shoe molding, so called because it’s located at “shoe level,” caught on because it looked good and also helped seal out insects and dirt. - Source: Internet
• Unfinished : This means the molding has not been stained or painted. Choosing the wood species that match your baseboard is essential for a flawless look when staining. When choosing an unfinished molding, it is best to paint or stain the full-length molding pieces first. - Source: Internet
• After installation, you may find spots on the shoe molding or baseboard that need touching up. Use matching paint or a stain marker to touch up any nicks or marks on the trim. If there are small gaps between molding pieces because the corners were out of square or the floor being uneven, use matching wood putty for stained trim or caulk for painted trim to fill in those gaps. - Source: Internet
• Creating tight miter joints on inside corners while doing base shoe or quarter round trim work is never easy, particularly in an old house, as corners are rarely actually 90 degrees. So cutting your miters at 45 degrees can lead to a corner with a gap. Sure it may just be a small gap, and it’s just the corner – but it’s a corner you could be looking at every day for the next 20 years. Do you really want to constantly look at that gap or the ugly caulk you used to fit the gap? And do you really want to have to measure and adjust your miter saw for each corner? Why not use a better method and get better inside corners? - Source: Internet
• 2. For inside corners, the long point of the miter is always at the back of the molding, against the wall, and against the miter saw fence. For inside corners, you measure to the long point of the miter and you cut to the long point of the miter. - Source: Internet
• 4. Measure the next wall. Be sure to hold your tape measure near the top of the molding and measure to approximately the same height on the outside corner. - Source: Internet
• 5. Mark the cutlist. This piece has a butt cut on the left, since it’s the first piece into the inside corner, and an outside corner (OC) on the right. - Source: Internet
• The first thing to know about installing shoe molding is that it teams up with baseboards in most homes to add a finished look to trim. You’ll find shoe molding in rooms with hard flooring surfaces such as tile, stone, sheet vinyl, hardwood, and laminate. For years, quarter-round molding (a name based on its end view) was considered the primary base shoe option. The only real question was whether you chose 1/2- or 3/4-inch quarter-round trim. But there’s actually a wide range of shoe molding profiles, and you can even make your own base molding. - Source: Internet
• The joinery in baseboard forms the foundation for nearly all the joinery in finish carpentry, which makes perfect sense because baseboard is meant to replicate the foundation—the plinth—of a classical column. Though casing is the first molding profile noticed in a home, and often the first molding installed in a home, baseboard is usually the first molding that an apprentice carpenter learns to cut, and for good reason. The first big challenge in finish carpentry is learning how to identify and cut inside and outside corners—both miters and copes. - Source: Internet
• The right tools for the job will help make your project come out great. Shoe molding is easily cut with a hand-powered miter saw. A powered miter saw works great too. Using a pneumatic finish nailer is safe and fast and helps prevent damaging the molding with an errant hammer strike during installation. - Source: Internet
• If your home has stained wood trim, you will likely want your shoe molding to match. Lumber yards typically carry unfinished oak and pine molding, which are the most common stain-grade trim materials, but you may need to go to a specialty lumber store if your house is trimmed with wood of a less common species. If you don’t know what wood your existing trim is made of, it’s best to bring a sample to the lumber yard so someone can help you ID it. If you don’t have a loose piece of trim, use a chisel to carefully chip off a piece of baseboard in an inconspicuous spot down low where it will get covered by the shoe molding. This sample chip will also help you match the stain you will need to finish the installation later. - Source: Internet
• Once you’ve bought your shoe molding, it’s a good idea to put on at least one coat of your desired finish before you install it if you plan to paint or stain it. This is because it will be easier to coat the loose pieces beforehand than it would when they are installed tight to your floor. Plus painting the trim while it’s on a drop cloth or workbench will be much less messy than when it’s down on the ground. - Source: Internet
• For purposes of trim molding installation, an “outside corner’’ doesn’t mean a corner that’s outdoors. It means a corner that juts out into a room, as on the edge of a chimney or cabinet. Cutting an outside corner in trim molding is similar to cutting an inside corner, involving two pieces cut at 45 degrees to combine for a 90-degree angle. The difference is that an outside corner requires the 45-degree cuts to be in the opposite direction as those of an inside corner. - Source: Internet
• Using the right cuts in the right places gives your project a refined, professional look. Outside corners get miter cuts. It’s usually best to cope-cut inside corners. And finishing off a run with a return gives a crisp, refined look. - Source: Internet
• Today, the main goal of both baseboard and shoe molding is to conceal the less-than-appealing transition between the bottom of the wall and the floor. Baseboard alone covers most of the gap, but because it’s larger than shoe molding, it’s relatively stiff and doesn’t conform well to an uneven floor. Even after baseboard has been installed, you will often see small gaps here and there between the baseboard and the floor. That’s where shoe molding comes in. Its small size makes it slightly flexible, allowing it to be installed flat against the floor to give baseboard a professional finished look. - Source: Internet
• Some may use shoe molding and quarter-round interchangeably, but the two are different molding options. Quarter round, as the name suggests, when viewed from the end will look to be one-quarter of a full circle. The length of the quarter round where it protrudes from the wall is the same as its height. - Source: Internet
• To keep things organized, it’s a good idea to rough-cut all your pieces a few inches longer than you’ll need them to be and then position each piece on the floor where you plan to install each one. This will help you avoid cutting the wrong pieces when walking back and forth to the saw to make cuts. It will also let you know if you have enough material to finish the job before you start installing. - Source: Internet
• Once the angle of the miter is traced, set the utility blade on the line and wiggle it up and down, cutting the angle a little deeper. When the blade is about 1/8-in. deep, twist it sideways and the waste will snap out of the way. - Source: Internet
• The next step is figuring out how much trim you need. Walk around the room and take a tally of all the surfaces that will get a piece of shoe molding. Typically the molding just runs the full length of all the pieces of baseboard, but it sometimes runs along the base of cabinets too. - Source: Internet
• While at first glance, shoe molding may appear the same as quarter round, examining closer will prove otherwise. Looking at shoe molding from the side, you will see that its height is greater than the length that protrudes from the wall. The shorter protrusion length from the wall is what makes shoe molding fit perfectly with the baseboard and gives the trim a more finished look. - Source: Internet
• Using a 3/4″ drum to sand the base shoe gives you the exact radius needed for the profile cut so that the two pieces of base shoe fit snugly together with no gap. I like to first sand my base shoe at 90 degrees by holding the piece flat to the sander’s surface. Once I have the profile perfect I then lift the front of the piece to emulate a back cut. This secondary sanding step allows for a little play in case the corner isn’t a perfect 90 degrees. - Source: Internet
• 4. Mark the cutlist. This piece measures 7 9/16+. The + sign really means an extra 1/32 in. The left end is a butt cut; the right end is a Cope (C), which means it must be mitered first. - Source: Internet
• Sometimes homeowners may opt for adding caulk to the gaps, but this does not provide the most visually pleasing solution. Installing shoe molding is a better option for a professional, elegant look. Use shoe molding and baseboards as a team in rooms with hardwood flooring to give it a polished look. - Source: Internet
• 3. Mark the cutlist. This piece has an inside corner on the right, which gets coped, and an outside corner on the left (OC). - Source: Internet
• If a wall is longer than the available pieces of shoe molding, you will need to join two pieces with a scarf joint. This is done by cutting the same angle on both pieces where they will overlap and fit tight to each other. Scarf joints are preferred to butt joints for joining pieces because a scarf joint will help align the two pieces and it will provide more surface area for gluing. - Source: Internet
• 2. Bumps ruin miters. A common bump of drywall mud at the bottom of a wall will ruin a miter, making it tough to close the top of the joint, requiring shims, messy drywall cutting, and more fiddling time. - Source: Internet
• You can either install these molding as it is or tweak them up according to your home improvement goals. Caulk, varnish, paint, and nail crayons are some tools you will need. These extra touch-ups give your molding a professional and visually pleasing look. - Source: Internet
• Tip: When cutting a miter on your miter saw, make your first cut a bit past the mark you made for your cut, and then carefully nudge the piece over, repeating the cutting process until the blade falls just past the line. This ensures that you don’t accidentally cut the piece too short. It’s also a good idea to cut outside miter angles a half degree more than the actual measurement because that will ensure that the outside corner of the joint closes up nice and tight. - Source: Internet
• Installing each piece will require a slightly different approach. For short lengths that butt against the casing, don’t force them in if they’re cut too long. Take the piece back to the saw and trim it if it’s more than 1/32 in. too long, otherwise you might crack the casing or even move the door jamb. - Source: Internet
• These include a miter saw to cut the shoe molding, a coping saw to create inside corners, and a finish nailer (or pinner) to attach the molding. Because shoe molding is small and easy to damage, this is one case where a finish nailer or pinner is preferable to a hammer and nails. Start in a corner and work your way around the room in one direction. This makes it simpler to cut the coping joints you’ll need for the inside corners. - Source: Internet
• 3. Mark pieces in place. Some carpenters intentionally cut outside corners long so that they can mark them in place, without having to use a tape measure. - Source: Internet
• 2. Mark the cutlist. Write the measurement in the center of the cutlist and write a “B” on both sides. We’re coping all inside corners, so both ends are butt cuts. - Source: Internet
• 1. Miter joints aren’t forgiving. If a wall is bowed, or a corner out of square, a miter won’t close tightly. Miters require extra fiddling time. And they have to be cut exactly the right length. - Source: Internet
• Adjust the molding piece and nail it using a nail gun. The nails should be centered and at least one to two feet apart to prevent the cracking of the material. A brad nailer or a finish nailer is the most effective tool for nailing shoe molding and quarter-round trims. - Source: Internet
• Shoe molding does not usually go across the bottom of door casings unless you need to cover a big gap where new flooring was installed. Take your tape measure and measure each of the places you will need shoe molding, and add up the total number of feet. Now add 10 percent to that number to account for all the cuts you need to make (add even more if you have a lot of corners or doorways to work around)–and that’s how much shoe molding you should buy. - Source: Internet
• For the corners having a 22.5-degree angle, diagonal cuts need to be made for a firm fit. Multiple moldings are joined together using mid-run joints. The pieces are cut at a 45-degree angle, joining ends to cover the entire length of the wall. - Source: Internet
• Coping inside corners isn’t nearly as difficult as people think. In fact, once the miter is cut, whether you use a coping saw or a jig saw, the cut can be made effortlessly—if you use the tools properly. Follow these directions and you’ll soon be coping molding perfectly. Make several practice cuts before attempting to cope a measured piece of molding. Remember, craftsmanship and safety go hand-in-hand: you can’t do fine work, and you can’t work safely, unless you clamp your work to a work bench, table, or work station. - Source: Internet
• Most carpenters are never taught how to recognize inside and outside corner miters. Instead, they’re assigned a closet in the back of a home and told to figure it out on their own. That’s a tough way to learn, and it explains why many carpenters never learn the simple basics of miter joints. Watch most carpenters at work, and sooner or later you’ll see them close their eyes and try to visualize the direction they need to miter a piece of molding. Learn these basic rules—the Short-point-Long-point Method—and you’ll never wonder which way to miter your moldings, even when you’re cutting them upside down and backwards (yes, crown molding is next!). - Source: Internet
• If the surface the molding is ending at is perpendicular to the shoe molding, use a simple 90-degree cut to create a butt joint. The length of this piece will be the distance from the surface the molding is abutting to the farthest point of the joint at the other end of the piece. Use your tape measure to get that measurement. - Source: Internet
• The flexibility of the molding makes it easy to do this. Insert one finish nail approximately every 12 inches along the baseboard. Catch the baseboard with nails; be careful not to insert the nails into the gap beneath the baseboard or the molding will not be securely attached. Don’t worry about hitting wall studs, shoe molding attaches only to the baseboard. - Source: Internet
• For tight-fitting joints, it is important to cope the inside corners. To create a cope joint, cut the first piece of trim at a 90-degree angle so it fits tightly in the corner. Then, for the next piece, cut it at a 45-degree angle. Coping makes molding look great even if the corner is out of square, which is the case in most older houses and even with some new construction. - Source: Internet
• The first step is to choose the shoe molding to complete your project. There is a wide range of commercially available base shoe profiles and sizes, both unfinished and prefinished. District Floor Depot offers both unfinished and prefinished shoe molding to fit your needs. - Source: Internet
• Unless you’re a pro with a really good saw blade your cuts will probably end up a little jagged and probably also won’t fit very well. So you could go and try to refine it with the saw or maybe even pull out a round file or rasp in order to try to smooth it out, but that’s not the easiest solution by any means. This is where I like to turn to my oscillating spindle sander with a 3/4″ drum for base shoe or a 1″ drum for quarter round. If you don’t happen to have an oscillating spindle sander you could also use a drill press with a drum sanding attachment. - Source: Internet
• A snug fit is best. Don’t hit the molding with a hammer. Instead, use a short block of wood to nudge the molding into position. Often a little drywall mud built up in the corners is all that prevents a well-measured piece from fitting on the wall. - Source: Internet
• This wall is the most common one found in homes. It has two inside corners. The right corner will be coped and the left corner must be butt cut. - Source: Internet
• 3. First and second pieces are cut differently. For coped inside corners, the first piece is always cut with a butt or square cut. The second piece is always cut first with an inside corner miter, then that miter is coped to fit tightly against the first piece. - Source: Internet
• Short of that, the quick carpenter solution for cutting with a circular saw is to use the speed square. The triangular shape includes a 90 and 45 degree angle and there are marks to cut other angles. For the 45, you place the lip of the square against the quarter round, slide the square back until it’s the blade is exactly at the mark to cut with the deck of the saw flush against the square, and then you just cut keeping the deck of the saw flush against the square. - Source: Internet
• If you’ve been looking at baseboard finishing trim, you’ve probably discovered quarter-round, too. As the name implies, this type of molding is one-quarter of a round dowel (split a dowel down the middle, then further split the halves, and you’ll have quarter-round). While quarter-round can be installed along the bottom of baseboard, trim carpenters and homeowners tend to prefer the sleeker look of shoe molding, which is taller and narrower than its curved counterpart. - Source: Internet
• So there you have it, my method for better inside corners when doing base shoe or quarter round trim work. I’d love to hear your thoughts and opinions on this method, or your experience with trying it. Leave me a message in the comments section below. - Source: Internet
• is the most common type of shoe molding, and you can buy inexpensive (paintable) pine shoe molding for $5 to $6 per eight-foot section. Hardwood shoe molding, including oak, ash, and walnut, which can be stained to match your trim, runs $6 to $10 per eight-foot section. Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) shoe molding is made from a combination of resin and sawdust, and it is similar in price to pine, at $5 to $6 per eight-foot section. MDF is even more flexible than wood, so it’s a good choice if you have a lot of uneven gaps under your baseboard, but while suitable for painting, it doesn’t stain well. - Source: Internet
• Outside corners must be mitered. Because of that, the joints must be cut precisely to fit the wall. Measure these pieces carefully and expect to spend some extra fiddling time at each corner. - Source: Internet
• The small scale and simple lines of most base shoe molding make it easy to cope the inside corners. After cutting the copes in a roomful of baseboard, it will seem like a quick and easy job. The flexibility of base shoe molding lets you bend it to conform with wavy floors that are almost universal in older homes and still quite common in new construction. - Source: Internet
• Cutting lengths for the inside corners of a room is more straightforward than an outside corner. A specialized cut called the cope cut is made on moldings to fit outside corners perfectly. You will need to sand the edges and miter the ends, ensuring a sturdy and durable installation. - Source: Internet
• 4. Make notches deep. Don’t worry about cutting a notch too deep. (See right photo, below.) - Source: Internet
• Most shoe molding is a thin, rounded-over molding strip which looks great. But you don’t have to use it. Pick a molding that you like and that matches the look in the room. We like a 3/4-inch by 3/4-inch cove molding. - Source: Internet
• The outside corner needs a 43 degree miter (2 x 43 = 86 degrees). In order to cut that angle, the saw will need to be set at 47 degrees. (For more information, see Jesper Cook’s article, “Miter Angles and Miter Saws.”) - Source: Internet
• 2. Use a protractor. Outside corner miters must be cut at precisely the correct angle. Use a protractor to read the corner angle. Divide the corner angle in half to get the miter angle. - Source: Internet
• This is more often used for rough cuts, especially with framing. When doing something more accurate like your quarter round, a miter saw or a miter box are the best tools for the job. And for inside corners with quarter round, coping the joint with a coping saw is preferred to a 45 degree cut. - Source: Internet

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