How To Smooth A Textured Wall, 75 References

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75 Reference List: How To Smooth Out A Textured Wall | How To Smooth Textured Plaster Walls

• When doing your own DIY skim coating, you will want to use a premixed joint compound aka “ drywall mud”. You can get it in either a box or a bucket at your favorite home improvement store. Premixed joint compound has a much finer texture and takes longer to dry which is perfect for us DIYers because it gives us some wiggle room. - Source: Internet
• Now the strenuous part, sanding. J said it was a serious workout… I say its easy..because I didn’t do it;) We bought a sander thingie in hopes that the sanding would be more consistent throughout the walls, high and low. It took him four hours to sand the entire room. Key here is applying consistent pressure when using the sanding block thingie {you can tell a DIY blog from a professional website by the language and use of the word ‘thingie’} - Source: Internet
• My least favorite aspect of my house is probably the wall texture. It’s very rough, ugly, and quite honestly a bit dangerous. I have bloodied a knuckle or two trying to plug something in behind a piece of furniture. Just the act of dragging your skin across it is dangerous! Therefore, I have made removing the bad wall texture a priority. I’ve recently completed the second room and I’m here to tell you that you can sand down bad wall texture, it’s not hard, and so long as you aren’t seeking perfection it will look good. - Source: Internet
• You will also want a lot of sandpaper. Don’t be stingy, using enough fresh sandpaper will make your job much easier. I used 80 grit sandpaper for both sanders, and 120 for the palm sander to fix trouble spots. Don’t get 120 for the drywall sander though, it will just melt the paint and gum up the sanding pad (it’s also not necessary, I did one room with a 120 finish and one without and they look the same). - Source: Internet
• Repeat the process of spreading joint compound and then scraping off the excess until you have finished your whole wall. Some walls have a ton of texture. If you have those types of walls, you will probably need to do more than one round of skim coating. Just be sure to let your joint compound dry before doing additional coats. - Source: Internet
• Oh man I love this paper so much. I met some of the Walls Need Love team at a conference last summer and instantly was impressed with the personality of the brand, and the ingenuity behind all of their removable wallpapers, wall decals, and murals. I used some decals to decorate the boys’ room before it got it’s full makeover, and they were so fun to put up and also nice to take down easily. So when I started to look for paper for this room, they came to mind. And when I spotted the Legend of the Jackalope wallpaper I was sold! It feels just right for our desert-dwelling, curious and fun family. - Source: Internet
• Just as in painting, you’ll get better results by not letting one swath of compound dry before you roll the next swath. Drywall compound has a tendency to harden and set if dry bits of compound come into contact with wet compound, so work quickly, in no more than two-foot swaths, to keep from skimming wet compound over already dry areas. Note: Do not dump the excess compound you scrape from the wall back into your bucket of fresh compound. Dispose of it in another bucket and use only fresh compound as you skim. Let the compound dry completely, from 24 to 48 hours and, if necessary, apply a second skim coat. - Source: Internet
• Do you ever look at your walls and think about the texture? No? Just me? There is a current trend going around to modernize a home by having smooth walls. But, paying someone to change the finish on your walls can be really expensive. Don’t you worry! I’ve always got you covered. Learning how to skim coat a textured wall is a very doable DIY project for any skill level. - Source: Internet
• Before you start to skim coat, you will also need to get your area ready. Skim coating a wall can be pretty messy. Make sure you put down drop cloths or plastic to protect your floors. You could even use the really cool Scotch Blue Pre-taped painter’s plastic that I use for painting. - Source: Internet
• Be sure to wear a dust mask because even small residual smears can create copious amounts of drywall dust. It’s also a good idea to use a bright work light to illuminate the wall as you’re sanding so you can see tiny spots of compound. When your wall looks good under bright work lights, it will look amazing when it’s painted under normal light. - Source: Internet
• So, I thought I would start out with an image. What you see here is six different wall textures. Nothing wrong with that, right? Right. If these pictures were taken in six different rooms… - Source: Internet
• With the hand sander, cut in around edges and fixtures. Be careful and follow the sander’s lead. Don’t put a lot of pressure on the sander to eat through the wall texture faster, that will just break your machine (ask me how I know!) I also like to revisit the main part of the wall with the hand sander after using the large sander. There will be areas that the large sander couldn’t get, I think this is because walls get wavy over time and the head of the drywall sander is too big to get in low spots. - Source: Internet
• Once you have your joint compound on the wall, angle your taping knife to 45° and scrape off the excess “mud”. When I am skim coating I go for one area at a time. You don’t want to joint compound (drywall mud) drying before skimming off the extra. Not too difficult, right? Skim coating is totally doable for any DIY skill level. - Source: Internet
• Third, I don’t want to live with it! Perhaps I’m just being stubborn, but this wall texture is bad. I could maybe live with it if it was just the nature of the texture, but it’s also the application. It’s obvious that this stuff is impossible to match, so it’s painfully obvious everywhere the wall ever had to be patched. - Source: Internet
• i repeated all of the steps above for the second coat. the only difference is this time i made the mud a bit thinner. this helped it go a bit faster + i didn’t need to use nearly as much. after it dried, i sanded it down. it took much less time since since the second coat was much smoother to begin with. - Source: Internet
• Using a small taping knife, scoop your joint compound out of the box and put it in the mud pan. Use the long taping knife to apply an even layer across the entire textured surface, working in areas about 2ftx2ft. Scrape any excess off to get the surface as smooth as you can. Do this across the entire area and allow to dry for 4-8 hours. - Source: Internet
• **Something to keep in mind: this is really the only step in this process, and it takes time. I started on a wall with a medium to heavy texture, and it took me an hour to sand a 4′ x 2′ area. So don’t get discouraged, and take lots of breaks (I do). - Source: Internet
• Stand on a sturdy step ladder to reach the top and work your way down with a 10-inch drywall taping knife. To remove texture without gouging the drywall, hold the blade approximately 30-degrees to the wall, and scrape in whatever motion feels most comfortable to you, using long slow strokes. If the knife meets resistance, stop; spray that area again and wait until the texture softens sufficiently. Continue spraying and scraping until you’ve removed all the texture. - Source: Internet
• We used this texture on the walls and ceiling, you can see in the below picture where the mud is thinner (because it already dried) and how there is definitely texture, but its not everywhere. (The big color variation is because the mud is still wet, when its dry its almost impossible to see in pictures.) - Source: Internet
• Once your walls are smooth, it’s time to spackle. Fill all your holes and if you want to try to match the texture, I’ve had good results with a spray on orange peel wall texture can from Homax. Then wipe down your walls with a clean damp rag and you’re ready to paint! - Source: Internet
• The process of smoothing textured walls with skim-coating is fairly common. It refers to spreading a layer of joint compound over the walls to fill in the bumps and valleys in the texture effectively creating a smooth surface. The texture itself is made of a spray-on joint compound, and since my walls were painted with a flat paint, I had no prep work before I got started. I looked at a few tutorials before attempting on my own, and as I began I actually developed a little different method that really worked quickly and easily. - Source: Internet
• Dry time will vary depending on the humidity in the room. The second coat is rarely necessary on most textured walls, but if your wall has deep texture, such as valleys and peaks of slap-brush texture, it might take a second coat to cover completely. If applying a second coat, do not sand between coats. Sand the completed wall smooth with drywall sanding sponges. - Source: Internet
• Step 1: Sand the wall (start with the 60 or 80 grit). Yup, it really is that simple. The orbital function on the sander will help guide your hand as your start sanding. I recommend using a circular motion (rather than a side to side motion) for a more even sand. If you’re scared to start, find an inconspicuous test area and have at it. - Source: Internet
• The premixed joint compound (drywall mud) can be used as-is. Or, if you are looking for a texture that is easier to spread, you can add water. If you are adding water, you will want to add water in small increments until your drywall mud has the consistency of creamy peanut butter. You won’t need to add much to get the drywall mud where you want it. - Source: Internet
• Once the skim coat has dried, examine it for major rough areas, or fallen globs of mud. These can all be carefully smoothed with some sandpaper. Once the walls are smoothed and sanded, you’re ready to add wallpaper! - Source: Internet
• Use light pressure and sand in circles. Don’t use a drywall sanding pad because the surface is now 100 percent drywall compound, and the edges of a sanding pad are likely gouge and leave marks that will be visible under paint. Use bright work lights to illuminate the wall as you sand. - Source: Internet
• The most important thing is that your drywall finisher clearly understands what you want. Our finisher knew that I wanted the walls almost smooth, so he did a couple of test spots so that I could see what my finish options were. I chose the one with the least amount of variation and they got to work. - Source: Internet
• Saturate a thick-nap roller in the thinned compound and, using an extension pole if necessary, roll it evenly on the wall, starting at one side and working in two-foot-wide vertical swaths. This is arduous and messy work—the roller will be heavy and compound will drip everywhere. Apply enough compound to generously cover the existing texture. Note: It’s a good idea to recruit a helper at this point—one of you can roll the compound on the wall and the other can skim the surface smooth, as described in the next step. Smooth the wet texture with a 10-inch drywall taping knife, starting at the bottom of the wall and lightly pulling upward. - Source: Internet
• Avoid plastic drop cloths, which can become very slippery under wet drywall compound. Tape off baseboards, window trim, and door trim with 3″-wide painter’s tape. Don protective goggles and old clothing—you’ll probably want to dispose of these duds when you’re done. Fill a pump sprayer with water and spray the entire wall evenly to soften the texture. - Source: Internet
• Wall texture is often applied out of necessity. Given a choice, many homeowners would choose a smooth, glass-like texture for their walls and ceilings. Besides being the preferred style of today, smooth surfaces help paint color stand out better. Because there are no bumps to create a shadow effect, the surface appears brighter. - Source: Internet
• When and if you start to see drywall peeking through, stop. You’ve gone too far, and it’s probably time to move on to another area. The goal is not to get the walls perfectly flat (because that would require skim-coating, or replacing the drywall). The goal is to minimize the heavy texture as much as possible. - Source: Internet
• The first step in any project is gathering your materials. To skim coat your textured walls, you will need a few things. Before you head to the store, check out my list of what you will need. That way you won’t have to make too many trips. Trust me, I’ve done it. - Source: Internet
• okay, to be honest, i don’t hate our textured walls. they’re not the prettiest, but i see their utility every time one of my children takes a toy (or their head) to the wall. they are great for hiding unevenness in old homes, like ours, + they’re also great for hiding all the bumps + scrapes that are part of our daily life here. but when i got the chance to smooth them out in our powder room/laundry room reno, i couldn’t resist. - Source: Internet
• 2. You can skim coat, or float, the wall on top of the existing texture. This option is cheaper than replacing the drywall, but super tedious, exhausting, and requires mad skills. Sawdust Girl has a great tutorial for how to skim coat your walls, if you’re interested in DIY’ing it. - Source: Internet
• Easy-peasy..and probably cost $20 for all the supplies. It’s a DIY job indeed but if you’re tackling a wall that’s suffering from damp, you’ll need to tackle that first. Start off by looking at all the Indoor Air Quality Testing Sacramento has to offer if you’re in Sacramento, or if you live somewhere else you should be able to easily find a similar service. Air quality testing can reveal if you’re living with mold – a sure sign of excess moisture in the walls. - Source: Internet
• If you are looking to skim coat a really large textured wall or possibly an entire house full of textured walls, there is an even easier (and faster way) to do it. What I am about to share with you is insider info that the professionals use. Are you ready? - Source: Internet
• Our whole house has fairly textured walls. Im not talking popcorn status, but definite texture. The nursery is no different, so J had his work cut out for him. Here is what we were working with: - Source: Internet
• Another key factor in the visibility of wall texture is the sheen of paint that you are using. The higher the sheen, the sharper the shadows are, which makes the texture more visible. Interesting right? - Source: Internet
• • Sanding Pads – You’ll want to make sure you buy the right pads for your sander (some require velcro pads with holes, while others call for stick-on pads without holes.) I decided to go with 80 grit and 120 grit pads. The lower the grit number, the more abrasive the sand will be. So for sanding super heavy wall texture, I would recommend using a 60 or 80 grit, and finishing off with a 120 gritt for a softer hand. - Source: Internet
• Make sure to wear a mask so you dont inhale all the drywall dust and get ready to get lots of dust in your beard and hair :). I am saving the after photos for when we get a coat of primer/paint on it {and I didn’t get a good photo in the daylight}. It doesn’t look that different as of now but it feels so smooth. It’s definitely not perfect but $50 is a whole lot less than it would have cost to hire someone……and this will allow us to spend money in other places. - Source: Internet
• Though I’ve loved the idea of wallpaper for a long time, this was my first experience using it. I knew that before I put it up, I would have to get rid of the ugly, heavily textured Texas walls. You can add wallpaper directly over texture, but all of the texture will show through, making the finished wallpaper as bumpy and uneven as the wall beneath. This post will share how to smooth textured walls in preparation for wallpaper! - Source: Internet
• After lots of research I determined that a simple skim coat would do the trick to smooth the walls enough to add the paper. Adding the skim coat to smooth the textured walls was super inexpensive and a very simple process. I’ve partnered with Walls Need Love to share the DIY in this post! Once you get the hang of it, you’ll want to smooth and wallpaper all the rooms in the house. I’m already scheming my next wallpaper project! - Source: Internet
• I’ve said it before, but let me repeat myself. The internet “pros” will tell you this can’t be done. In their eyes, the only acceptable ways to deal with bad wall texture are: - Source: Internet
• If we are getting really technical here, skim coating is the process of layering joint compound to create a smooth surface. This technique can be used to repair damaged walls, seal seams when installing drywall, or smooth out texture. We are going to be focusing on using skim coating to create a smooth sleek surface for a textured wall. - Source: Internet
• the joint compound i used instructed me to wait 24 hours for it to dry before sanding, so i waited about three weeks. i used a hand sander, fine grit sand paper, + a lot of elbow grease to try + sand down the imperfections in the mud. there were still a lot of dimples in the walls, so i decided to do a second coat of mud. i’m not sure i could have avoided doing a second coat, but i think part of the problem with my first coat was that my mud was still a little too thick. - Source: Internet
• It’s okay if thin smears remain on the wall; you’ll sand them off in the next step. Let the wall dry completely, which could take up to 24 hours, before proceeding. Sand the wall smooth using a drywall sanding pad, fitted with a drywall sanding screen. - Source: Internet
• Step 3: (I recommend waiting until you’ve finished all of your sanding to start this step) Take your lint-free dust-cleaning cloth or rag, and dampen it with a little bit of water. Run the rag all over the sanded areas, removing any residual dust or fibers. You may need to do this several times over the same area to get it completely clean. You have now prepped your wall, and you are ready to paint. - Source: Internet
• Tip Wall texture effects can vary depending on how the material is applied and rolled. Practice the technique on scraps of drywall or even sheets of cardboard before moving to your walls and ceilings. Practice with both thin coats and heavy coats. Try different drying times between coats. - Source: Internet
• Some textures on walls and ceiling are pretty aggressive. This can especially be a problem if you want to put wallpaper over the texture, like we’re planning in Greta’s room. We have wallpapered over a slight orange peel texture in our last house with no issue but anything more than that, you’ll want to smooth it out before wallpapering. The ceiling in here isn’t the craziest texture we’ve ever seen, but it’s definitely enough to clearly show through any wallpaper we apply, and ruin the look and adhesion. So if you have a similar situation, all you need is a few simple tools and a bit of time to smooth that texture out before you put your wallpaper on. - Source: Internet
• The cost. Though I didn’t get an actual formal bid for it, my contractor estimated that it would be about 3-5x the regular cost to do a completely smooth finish. WUUUUUUUUT. (I’m wicked jealous of all of you east coasters that get smooth walls standard.) - Source: Internet
• Professional painters create wall and ceiling textures with an electric texture sprayer. These tools allow the user to pour texturing compound into a hopper, and the machine introduces water and air to the mix. The hopper is a better choice if you are texturing a large area. - Source: Internet
• After the joint compound is thinned out, pour it into a paint tray and grab a high nap paint roller with an extension pole. Here’s the MIND-BLOWING professional hack…We are going to roll the joint compound onto the wall like paint and then scrape it down! This method isn’t as common, but it is seriously so fast! Since we are going big, get a 2ft. knock-down texture knife to scrape off the excess joint compound. This method is the best if you are looking to cover more areas quickly. - Source: Internet
• Texturing walls is a time-honored method of adding character to a wall or covering such imperfections as drywall taping inconsistencies—but not everyone loves the ridges and swirls of knock-down or the soft ripples of orange peel. Luckily, if you prefer flat surfaces, it is possible to get rid of an old textured finish, though this tends to be a messy, time-consuming project. Before you even put on your work clothes and pick up a scraper, you should get to know the two methods for how to remove texture from walls depending on whether or not your walls are painted. - Source: Internet
• But wall texture does have the distinct advantage of being a quick method of finishing walls without the seemingly endless cycles of mudding, curing, and sanding drywall compounds. Wall texture can cover up imperfect drywall or mudding work, and it dries rapidly enough that you can begin painting just hours later. And many homeowners do enjoy the rustic look of textured walls. - Source: Internet
• I’ve given you a few options on how to skim coat a textured wall so that the DIY is doable for any skill level. You only need a few supplies for a big payout, so let’s get started! What wall are you going to skim coat first? Be sure to tag me on Instagram @angelarosehome when you post your project pictures. I want to be your biggest cheerleader! If you are looking for other DIY ideas check me out on Instagram and TikTok. I am always sharing about my current projects. - Source: Internet
• Let’s talk wall texture for a minute. There are a lot of different ways to finish drywall and I have researched all of them. For our renovation at the Merc I had my heart set (or so I thought) on perfectly smooth textured walls. (As you know I’m trying to keep the Merc as time-period true as possible.) So in 1928 when it was built, they used plaster walls with minimal texture. - Source: Internet
• First, the sad before: This photo mostly looks sad because it wasn’t styled. It was a regular day, towels off the rack (probably in the laundry) and nothing to make the space look cool at all. I had previously stained the tile grout, which made a great improvement on the even-more-boring before. What you can see is the heavily textured wall. - Source: Internet
• I like to go over a room twice, at least with the drywall sander, at 80 grit. This helps get missed spots and areas that need more attention. If you have particularly troublesome areas, put some 120 grit on the hand sander and smooth down those areas of wall texture. - Source: Internet
• Slipping a 2-inch steel putty knife behind the baseboard and gently prying it outward should do the trick. You may need to tap the head of the putty knife with a hammer to help wedge it between the baseboard and the wall in order to pry the baseboard off. Protect yourself and the rest of the room from falling wall texture. - Source: Internet
• Step 2: This step is totally optional and based on personal preference. If you’ve finished step 1 and desire an even smoother finish, replace your 60 or 80 grit pad with a 120 grit and run the sander over the desired area. You will not need to spend as much time on this step as you did on the first, since step one accomplished most of the dirty work. - Source: Internet
• Wall texture that has never been painted can usually be removed with a soak-and-scrape process. Painted texture requires skimming the surface with drywall compound. Paint acts as a sealant against water, so soaking wouldn’t be effective very effective in softening the texture—you’re better off covering up. The skimming process requires a fine touch, too, so you’ll need to be patient and allow a few hours, or more, per wall. - Source: Internet
• They were all basics that I liked, but pretty boring. It turns out that the small area of our guest bathroom, combined with it’s irregular use made it a perfect opportunity to create a really fun room. Rather than being boring and basic, bathrooms are a place where you can go a little crazy and get away with it! By using this amazing Legend of the Jackalope wallpaper, I instantly added personality, humor, and the modern southwestern bohemian vibe that I love so much. - Source: Internet
• 3. Work in about a 2 foot area pulling the compound down and down, then across and across in smooth motions until it begins to set a little bit. As it dries, the compound becomes harder to scrape, so the final swipes with the taping knife can create a fairly smooth surface without a bunch of seam lines. - Source: Internet
• after getting the consistency of the mud correct, i worked in square sections, about 2’x2′. i used the small taping knife to grab the mud from the pan + apply a thin layer to the wall. i’d spread the mud over the entire square with the small taping knife, scraping as i went to get the layer as thin as i could. - Source: Internet
• once i got the mud applied, i used the large taping knife to gently sweep, at a 45ish degree angle, across the square. this removed any lines in the mud from my small taping knife + removed excess mud from the wall. i repeated this process until all the walls were covered. - Source: Internet
• This darkening effect does a superb job of hiding surface imperfections. If your drywall has visible seams, bulges, depressions, or other imperfections, wall texture can go a long way toward hiding them. This is one reason why ceilings are so often texturized: Because ceilings receive the most light, it is very hard to hide their imperfections. - Source: Internet
• i thought i would need to prep the walls, but i did not. turns out, joint compound is basically just dirt, so i didn’t feel the need to clean the dirt off of the walls before adding more dirt onto it. however, had the wall been excessively dirty, i probably would have taken a wet rag to them before starting. - Source: Internet
• We are using MY FAVORITE Sherwin-Williams Emerald Matte for all of the walls so the visible texture is significantly minimized. The important thing when using a low sheen paint is to make sure that its high quality, often times the lower the sheen, the less scrubbable, but Emerald is the best of both worlds. Finding the right paint for the job is SO important! Check out my guide here!! - Source: Internet
• To skim coat around the tile and figures, I taped it all off as I would have had I been painting. The joint compound is super easy to clean-up once it’s dry, because it’s basically dried powder. I used the ladder to reach the tops of the walls. I decided against skim coating the ceiling (I’m planning to add some wood planks eventually). - Source: Internet
• You may have to spray the wall two or three times in order to saturate it sufficiently. Give the wall about 15 minutes of dwell time, then test the texture with a fingertip. When the texture is soft enough for you to rub it off all the way down to the drywall beneath, it’s time to scrape. Starting at the top of the wall, scrape the softened texture. - Source: Internet
• You can see that the compound can have bubbles in it, and you may notice some air bubbles forming as you spread the mud on the walls. Don’t worry, you’ll easily be able to smooth those out further as the coating dries, and even add more mud if you need to. You can see the difference between the skim-coated surface on the bottom of this shot, and the textured wall above. What a difference! - Source: Internet
• While the drywall compound you will be applying typically sticks very well to painted surfaces, it’s a good idea to knock the sheen off high-gloss paint. In most cases, wall paint isn’t glossy and you’ll be able to skip this step. Wipe down the surface of the wall with clean damp rags. - Source: Internet
• Use a drill, fitted with a paddle bit, to blend the mixture until it reaches pancake batter consistency. Mix until it’s smooth and free of lumps. The actual amount you mix at one time isn’t as important as getting the right consistency. Once you get the hang of applying the compound, you may want to mix larger batches. Pour the thinned compound mixture into a large paint roller pan and roll it on the wall. - Source: Internet
• so the actual first step i took was to water the pre-mixed mud down until it was a thinner consistency. i read a lot of blog posts that described this consistency as peanut butter or frosting, but i found those unhelpful. i knew it was the right consistency when i put some on the wall with my small taping knife + it didn’t get large holes in it. - Source: Internet
• the texture we have all throughout our house is sometimes called “orange peel” texture. bet you can’t guess why 🤪 we decided to smooth out the walls in the powder room/laundry room because there were so many holes + marks in the walls. we would have had to match the texture on the walls, + this seemed like the easier option of the two. - Source: Internet

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