107 Fun Facts How To Test A Car Battery'S Amp Draw

Today’s topic is How To Test Amp Draw On A Car Battery. Obviously, you can find a great deal of how to test current draw on a car battery-related content online. The proliferation of online platforms has streamlined our access to information.

There is a connection between the Find How Fast Your Car Battery Will Drain (FULL CHART) and How To Test Car Battery Amps With Multimeter information. additional searching needs to be done for how to check current draw on a car battery, which will also be related to How To Diagnose a Dead Car Battery.

107 Fun Facts How To Test Amp Draw On A Car Battery | how to test current draw on a car battery

• Lights that turn off indicate that there is no parasitic drain. The battery is being drained when you pull the fuse from a component at rest that drains the battery. You can confirm what component is being powered by the fuse in the fuse box chart. To narrow down the problem, you can also look at the wiring diagram. - Source: Internet
• Sometimes an imminent battery problem happens suddenly without warning, but many times there are several signs that something may be wrong with your battery before it finally dies completely. If this is the case, you can load test a car battery to see if it is good, and you can replace it before it leaves you stranded. The next question you might have is how to check if your car battery is dead. Here are a few subtle ways that your car may whisper to you that you need to check your battery soon. - Source: Internet
• So you’ve done the test, you’ve waited an appropriate amount of time, and you’re still seeing above 50 milliamps. The next step is to start removing fuses one by one while observing the amp readings. If you see a sudden drop when removing a particular fuse, this is likely your culprit. - Source: Internet
• Here, we check the charge, or voltage, of your car battery. This is achieved by measuring the DC voltage of the battery in parallel with the multimeter. If you are looking to test for amperage draw (parasitic draw) – testing amps in series – we cover that process in this guide. - Source: Internet
• Parasitic battery drain reduces the lifespan of the battery. This is because it causes a voltage drop with time. This is why after some time, your battery dies for good, and the engine can’t start. - Source: Internet
• The formula for these calculations was to take the parasitic draw in Amps and multiply it by 24 hours to get the amount of Amps per day being drawn. Then, we take the equivalent amp hours of a battery based in its RC or CCA rating (see my article link above) and divide it by (parasitic amps * 24 hours). The result is the total days until 100% discharge of the car battery. - Source: Internet
• US brand INNOVA makes decent multimeters for automotive tasks, such as the 3340 or cheaper 3320, but even a standard electrician’s multimeter can do the trick. Do spend a bit of time going over the specs to ascertain functions and the electronic input protection. This is especially important for the multimeter and your health. Both meters mentioned are not fused on the 10A input, for example, whereas the Fluke 77 IV is. - Source: Internet
• With your battery still being new (car batteries have a lifespan of approximately six years), a jumpstart should be all you need to get going. This solution assumes you have jumper cables or a standalone jump started stashed away in the truck. Since the battery is healthy, it’ll receive power from the other battery, and then charge up properly. - Source: Internet
• When the battery is left overnight, how much energy is lost? Batteries typically drain by 10% overnight on phones. The reason for it is that the phone is running a lot of background processes. You must turn on airplane mode before going to sleep if you want to save battery. - Source: Internet
• Essentially, this is when the car continues to draw power from the battery terminals even when the car’s engine is turned off. This could be due to many reasons. Since most cars today have many advanced auto parts and electrical equipment parts, a small parasitic drain is usually expected. - Source: Internet
• Load test: a load is applied to the battery while its voltage is monitored. You can do this by starting the engine and monitoring the voltage with a multimeter that has a Min/Max mode. This will automatically store the high and low voltages it picks up. The high voltage will likely be in the 14V area and is perfectly normal, while a drop under 9.6V during the process would indicate it can no longer effectively hold charge and needs changing. - Source: Internet
• The next step is to connect the test light after you have loosened the battery terminals. To test the battery, connect one end of the test light to the free terminal on the battery. Afterwards, hook the other end of the clamping cable to the clamp you just removed. The test light will turn on after connecting, which means your battery is draining power. - Source: Internet
• New and fully charged car batteries should have 12.6 volts. This is the standard voltage for all batteries. If your car does not easily start after turning the keys, then it means that your battery is weak and most likely needs to be replaced. - Source: Internet
• I recommend this charger seen on Amazon, which is excellent for car, marine, and golf cart batteries, and I have used this one on a daily basis for over 5 years without a hiccup on my battery bank and for quarterly car charges as well. It’s extremely user-friendly and is simply a set it and forget it type of charger. Hook it up, walk away, and you can come back and three months or more and your battery will still be in perfect condition. - Source: Internet
• Turn off the power before you connect the meter, and use alligator clips! Why is this important? When you use the standard pointy meter leads to complete the circuit when the power is on, all of the current of the circuit will immediately flow through the tiny tip of the probe lead. Due to the small surface area, the probe can heat up and micro-weld itself to what you’re testing. Using alligator clip leads spreads the electrical load over a larger area. Attach them, and then power the circuit. - Source: Internet
• Although there are many tests for battery checks, I recommend using the multimeter method. This is because it is simple and easy to carry out even by yourself. The other method, using an amp clamp, is convenient for measuring small voltages across the batteries. - Source: Internet
• A parasitic draw is an excessive electrical load on the system that happens after the vehicle is turned off. There will be some activity and loads when you turn your vehicle off, your clock circuit for one. In many modern vehicles, when you shut down and remove the key, a series of events happens that can draw current for several minutes after you turn the engine off. This is normal. To see if this is excessive and test for a parasitic draw, you’ll need a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) capable of testing amps. - Source: Internet
• Select the DC volts position on your multimeter (or the 12V setting if you have a dedicated car battery test range). DC voltage is usually marked as a V followed by a short line with a dotted line beneath it. The wavy line after a V is AC (alternating current) voltage and is for checking the mains voltage in your house. - Source: Internet
• Parasitic Draw Test with a Multimeter. On occasion, a battery may experience significant drain long after the engine has been shut off. The result can often lead to a flat, caused not by a faulty battery or through something obvious like the headlights being left on. It typically happens due to a short circuit that can be tricky to pin down. - Source: Internet
• Is it possible for a bad battery to cause parasitic draws? In normal circumstances, parasitic draws less than 75 milliamps are normal; any parasitic draws exceeding 75 milliamps will quickly drain the battery. Battery drain can occur when an alternator has a bad diode. Current can flow from one end of an alternator to the other when it has a good diode. - Source: Internet
• Once you have determined that the current drain you’re reading is safe, gradually reduce the meter’s scale to the appropriate low range, probably 2 amps or 200 mA. You are now reading the parasitic drain on the battery. Some vehicles will show as little as 10 mA residual drain. Others, probably high-end cars with lots of high-end gadgets, will draw more. - Source: Internet
• Whenever possible, connect the meter on the ground side of the circuit. It’s the same reasoning you employ when, while replacing the battery, you should always disconnect the negative terminal first and connect it last. For a current measurement, the meter will be in series with the circuit, so the probe leads are as live as any wire in the circuit. If you connect the meter on the ground side of the circuit (as per the illustration above), completing the circuit to ground will cause power to flow if the circuit wasn’t turned off, yet it can’t cause a dead short of a live power wire to ground because the meter is already on the ground side. In contrast, if you connect the meter to the positive side of the circuit and accidentally touch a probe lead to ground, it’ll cause a dead short of power to ground, which is sure to blow up the meter’s fuse or the meter itself. - Source: Internet
• Say you leave your vehicle sit for long periods of time and the battery goes dead. You’ve either checked or replaced both the battery and alternator, and you know they’re good. So what’s going on? You might have a parasitic draw. - Source: Internet
• When the meter drops down to 25mA or less after removing the offending fuse, bulb or unplugging a circuit, you likely have your culprit. Repair the fault/replace the item and run another test to be sure. If you’re confident there are no other faults, reconnect the battery. - Source: Internet
• Anything under the 75% charge rate, or about 12.45V, generally indicates the battery is undercharged and will need recharging. It does not, however, indicate that it is bad. If after recharging it doesn’t hold the charge, then it is probably on its way out. - Source: Internet
• Lastly, above I said that “for the most part, a circuit either works or it doesn’t.” There is a notable gray area here. In a previous installment I listed the types of circuit failures, and there was one labeled “high resistance failure.” To troubleshoot this type of failure, you need to do something called a Voltage Drop Test. Now that we’ve covered voltage, resistance, and current measurements, next week we’ll explain about voltage drop testing. - Source: Internet
• Begin by parking and turning off the car with the charged battery next to the dead one. Pop both car’s hoods and get the jumper cables out. You should also protect your hands and eyes in case something goes wrong. - Source: Internet
• Let me say right off that measuring current is a far-less-common application than measuring voltage or resistance. For the most part, either a circuit works or it doesn’t. If it doesn’t, it’s usually because it doesn’t have a voltage supply (which is verified by using the meter to confirm the presence of voltage), it doesn’t have a path for the current to flow (which is verified by using the meter to confirm continuity), or because a part is bad. Thus, it’s rare that you’d need to independently measure how much current is actually flowing unless you’re trying to find the source of a parasitic drain that’s running down the battery. We’ll get to that at the end of this installment. - Source: Internet
• Most of the manual ranging meters have a 20V range, which is what you would need to test a car battery. The 20V range means it will measure between 0V and 20V. See below: - Source: Internet
• A multimeter is the best way to test your car battery to see if it needs to be replaced. It gives you a picture of how your battery is performing electronically, but there are some things that you can look for that might also tell you that your battery needs to be replaced. Here are a few of the things you should look for that tell you it is time for a new battery. - Source: Internet
• There are a slew of multimeters on the market, from cheap Chinese-made testers and Craftsmans up to high-end Flukes. A basic device is all you’d need for a parasitic draw test with a multimeter. Just make sure it can test amperage, has an auto ranging mode, and is at least a known brand. - Source: Internet
• How is parasitic draw calculated? Check your Car’s battery while it is off to see if something is draining the power. Do not test the voltage. Then, you should switch your digital voltmeter to DC AMP measurement. - Source: Internet
• An alternative is to thus diagnose parasitic draw by measuring voltage drop across the fuses. You can do this in-situ as auto fuses have open test points on them, so no need to remove them or disconnect the battery. What you are looking for is a voltage drop in the millivolts range. It is caused by an increase in resistance brought about by the heating of the fuse through movement of current. - Source: Internet
• A parasitic draw test is required when a vehicle battery becomes discharged with the key in the off position. A component or components are drawing current from the battery when they should not be. This test will show you how to quickly pinpoint the source of the draw using voltage drop across fuses. - Source: Internet
• But if you know what to do next, jumping or replacing a battery doesn’t seem like such a daunting challenge. Although jumping will usually do the trick, older and less healthy batteries could end up causing all sorts of issues. Here what to do if you have a lifeless car on your hands. - Source: Internet
• The next step is to pull each fuse one by one. Fuse holders can be arranged in order of the amp ratings, starting with the fuses with the lowest and ending with the highest. Check that the test light illuminates after pulling out a fuse. If the light does not indicate any changes, check the fuse box under the dash if it is not located in the engine compartment. - Source: Internet
• Most meters today are auto ranging, meaning after setting it to DC voltage, you won’t need to do anything else. The other, older type is a manual ranging multimeter, where you need to select the correct range regards the projected value of the circuit you are going to test. Most of the manual ranging meters have a 20V range, which is what you need to test a car battery. The 20V range means it will measure between 0V and 20V. - Source: Internet
• Note that you’ll most likely be able to jump a dying battery to get somewhere, but there’s a good chance it won’t start under its own power if you try it again with the same bad battery (i.e. don’t strand yourself somewhere). - Source: Internet
• Along with being a nuisance and potentially leaving you stranded, even minimal draw can wear down a vehicle’s battery over time, often leading to performance issues and possibly a slow death. The key to good battery life is to nip any parasitic draws in the bud and also ensure the battery keeps charge above 12.4V. - Source: Internet
• Sometimes the battery will be so damaged that it’s unable to take a charge for a jumpstart, too. The best way to find out for sure is by taking your battery somewhere that does free battery testing. Auto parts stores like O’Reilly, Autozone, and Advance Auto Parts will all do this—then you can buy a new one right there if need be. - Source: Internet
• This tutorial explores how to test your car battery, but you may be wondering, is there a difference between testing a car, motorcycle, boat, or RV batteries? The answer is yes, the principle is the same, but the voltage requirements are different. Each of these uses a different type of battery and has different requirements for starting and running the vehicle. Also, there is a difference between a deep cycle battery and a starting battery. Some RVs have both a starting battery and a deep cycle battery for running the electronics. The procedure for testing this type of battery is different from testing a car battery. - Source: Internet
• Before testing your battery, make sure everything is off, including the radio, lights, and any other electronics that could pull energy from the battery. You also want to see if you have a device that is drawing electricity from the battery even when it is supposed off, called a parasitic draw. This video explains how to do this test with a multimeter. - Source: Internet
• Next, with the help of the schematic diagram, disconnect each device on the circuit—one at a time—and check the meter. When the milliamp reading drops precipitously, you’ve found the problem. It could be anything, but in my experience, the following are the most common: - Source: Internet
• You are testing a battery, whether a car battery or a AA battery. As you can see, it is effortless and quick. So the solution is to try it out with different batteries that might be lying around (in your house or lab) to understand different charge positions. - Source: Internet
• Did you enjoy this tutorial? Now, you should have a good idea about how to check a car battery and some signs that your battery is going bad. You have a few steps that you can take to diagnose the problem yourself and know if it is your battery or if it is another problem. Please let us know what you think in the comments, and be sure to share this article if you gained anything from it. - Source: Internet
• To measure the car-off current draw, you’ll need a multimeter capable of reading current, preferably one with a 10- or 20-amp capacity, but a 200 milliamp lower scale. Start with a fully charged battery. Either make sure the doors are closed or wedge the door switch shut. Turning off the dome light isn’t good enough—on many cars, an open door will activate several circuits. - Source: Internet
• It is worth keeping on top of a battery that continually loses its charge as one that keeps dropping below 75 percent will eventually lead to damage. Most automotive batteries can last four or five years, but one under constant strain from a defective alternator or parasitic draw may fail earlier. On the other hand, if it is four years old and starting to flatten, it may need changing. - Source: Internet
• How often you need to replace a car battery depends on the type of battery, the technology it uses, and how well you treat it. Things like leaving your lights on accidentally overnight and letting it drain to low levels often determine battery life. Another question you might have is how long should a car battery last on average? Most batteries can be expected to last 3-4 years, but if you treat them well, some can last as long as 8-10 years, so this brings you to the question of when to replace your car battery. - Source: Internet
• A weak or old battery usually results in pulling larger amps. One might take the car for a long drive but the battery will not charge. If the car is constantly not starting, then aged battery might be the real reason. The expert’s maintenance tips might assist to abide this trouble. - Source: Internet
• A couple of things to note: Some modern vehicles, especially luxury vehicles, have systems that remain on after the key has been removed and the doors have been closed. These systems might remain on for up to 30 minutes after shutdown. Keep this in mind when doing your testing. You might have to wait with your meter still hooked up for 30 minutes or more to get an accurate reading. Once you unhook the meter, things start all over again. - Source: Internet
• Often, when doing this test, you need to move your test leads on the DVOM to a different location when testing for amps, so be sure to check for this. It’s also important to note that you need to make sure everything is off when doing your testing. Don’t leave the trunk or any doors open, and make sure the key is removed from the ignition. This way you’re sure that there won’t be any electrical loads that you induced when doing this test that would give you false readings. - Source: Internet
• Now, connect one end of the red (positive) jumper cable to the red post of the dead battery. And then connect the other end of the red cable to the red post of the charged battery. Next, connect one end of the black (negative) jumper cable to the black post of the charged battery. And the other end to an unpainted metal part in the dead car away from the battery. This grounds the circuit to prevent sparking. - Source: Internet
• Quality, Proper alternator voltage output (the alternator has to work correctly), Power surges and short circuits (for instance, improper jump starting).Ground connection from the car battery to the car. How much the battery is used, Outside temperature, physical damage and maintenance of the battery. - Source: Internet
• What is the reason for not charging a battery fast enough? When you charge your battery too fast, it can be damaged, resulting in a reduction of performance capacity, shortening its life cycle and even catching fire. Due to these reasons, it’s important not to rush the process. As the battery is charged, a constant voltage is applied to the battery until all power is removed. - Source: Internet
• First, we discussed how to use a multimeter for measuring voltage, or simply verifying that voltage is present. Last week, we addressed measuring resistance—verifying that a wire is continuous and not broken somewhere. Today we’re discussing how to use a meter to measure current, also referred to as amperage. - Source: Internet
• Charge may also be lost in the circuit through bad battery connections. As car batteries are low voltage, the connection needs to be that much better. As is the case with many cars, over time connections are prone to becoming loose, dirty and open to corrosion. - Source: Internet
• Of course, a repeatedly low charge doesn’t mean your battery is dead. It could be good and several scenarios might lead it to lose its charge: such as lights being left on, undriven for long periods, dodgy alternator, or even parasitic draw through any number of electrical circuits in the car going awry. Even an errant radio or internal light connection can repeatedly flatten a good one. But a positive outcome of the tests outlined above should prove the battery itself can hold a charge. - Source: Internet
• Now that you have everything you need, it is time to begin the process of checking your battery. First, we will tell you how to do it using a multimeter, and then we will address some things that you can look for even if you do not have a multimeter. Let’s get started. - Source: Internet
• You will find the fuse boxes under the dash and in the engine area. Almost every component that drains your battery illegally has fuses in it. The fuse box is usually black and contains all the fuses. In order to find the source of your troubles you will need to test those fuses. - Source: Internet
• First, we will measure the voltage of the battery. Second, we will measure the current. To do this, Move the selector dial to select D/C voltage measurement. Since the battery generates D/C power, therefore, we will measure D/C voltage. - Source: Internet
• Drive the car and operate all circuits – wipers, heater, seats, windows, GPS, lights, sat-nav etc – and then return and remove the key. Consult the manual on how long it takes for the various systems to sleep. Be sure to tape down the driver door switch that operates the dome light and leave the car unlocked so you don’t end up switching on any systems upon reentering. Carry out the testing of each fuse and note any spurious voltage drop. - Source: Internet
• You should also check the Reserve Capacity rating (RC), which is the time (in minutes) a battery will deliver 25A and maintain 10.5V. You are looking for a higher reserve capacity should the charging system fail. - Source: Internet
• It is now time to see what is causing the draw. The tried and tested method is to start pulling fuses to see which circuit is the culprit. [For testing newer vehicles with complex systems, see below for a different method]. - Source: Internet
• Most cars come with their cells inside the engine compartment, while some have them stuck in the trunk. Remove one of the clamps after you’ve located the battery. The positive or negative terminals can both be used in this situation. While you’re facing the battery, it’s best to choose one that’s nearby. By using this method, you will not have to operate over another terminal, so it prevents shorting the battery. - Source: Internet
• Note that whether either of the two amperage sockets have an internal fuse varies meter to meter. On some meters, both are fused. On others, only the high amperage (10A) socket is fused. On many inexpensive meters, neither is fused. This means that if you, for example, connect the meter to a circuit with a 20 amp draw, you can blow up the meter. - Source: Internet
• A parasitic draw is the use of power by an electrical component that consumes power even after the vehicle has been turned off and the component has been disconnected. In such a case, the vehicle’s electrical system will not function properly. Battery drain can occur long after the engine has been turned off. Sometimes this happens despite no fault with the battery or obvious reasons like leaving the headlights on. - Source: Internet
• Make sure your battery is fully charged. In order to accurately detect the parasitic draw, you need to begin with a fully-charged battery. Your car’s battery can be found under the hood. The battery should be charged to 100 percent with a vehicle battery charger. - Source: Internet
• Starter Current Draw Test. A current draw test is performed after the battery has been checked and found to be fully charged and in good condition. The starting system should also be visually inspected for any physical defects or loose connections. - Source: Internet
• Be careful, though. First, the main application for clamp meters is in household A/C wiring applications (finding how much current, for example, a refrigerator is drawing), and not all of them even measure D/C current. Second, to be useful for determining parasitic draw in a car, you need an accuracy of about 10mA (one hundredth of an amp), and you have to pay a fair amount to get a clamp meter that’s that accurate. Unless you’re a professional who does a lot of parasitic draw diagnosis, it’s probably not worth it. - Source: Internet
• In the figure below, the above steps have been taken, and the multimeter is reading 64.6 mA (milliamps) on its sensitive setting, which is a minor parasitic draw that I’ve simulated by leaving the car’s dome light on. On a modern car with control modules, 70mA is usually considered an acceptable parasitic drain, but less than 30mA is even better. - Source: Internet
• Tip: if you are a beginner looking how to use a multimeter to test a car battery to ascertain its voltage, consider getting one that has a dedicated battery tester range on it. The INNOVA 3320 is good for this. Other popular automotive multimeters include the INNOVA 3340 and the top of the line Fluke 88V. - Source: Internet
• If you see any of these signs, you should replace your car battery immediately. While it may have a little bit of life left in it, its imminent demise is near. Leaking, cracked batteries, or producing a rotten egg smell should be replaced immediately, as they are hazardous. A car battery with bulging sides is also an extremely hazardous situation, and the battery should be replaced immediately. - Source: Internet
• Most vehicles draw some battery current when the key is off, thanks to the clock and the internal memory of engine computers, body-control modules, and radio presets. Altogether, they draw a very small amount of current. Fifty milliamps would be a safe upper limit for this, though many vehicles will draw less. If you’re not sure, look up the correct rating in the service manual. - Source: Internet
• The alternator is the chief stuff that provides appropriate power to the car and other electrical systems. Lights, AC, windows, watch, and radio work on the power offered through the alternator. One might wonder how many amps a car battery draws after supplying energy to these small things. The reason behind this defect is alternator diode. The defected diode can cause a lot of trouble because it charges the circuit even when the engine is off. - Source: Internet
• Other than trying to start the engine to see if there’s charge, the best way to decipher a car battery’s status is to test it using a multimeter. Digital multimeters are the best option for this since they give a more accurate reading, although you could also use an analog one. And even a cheap, category I (CAT-I) multimeter is fine as you are merely testing voltage, not amperage. - Source: Internet
• With those warnings in mind, let’s do a current measurement. Note that we use the words “current” and “amperage” (the unit of current) interchangeably, but the meter’s dial and sockets aren’t labeled with a “C” for current. They’re labeled with the letter “A” for Amperage. - Source: Internet
• On newer cars the parasitic draw is slightly higher than on older cars due to the increase of electronic systems. A normal parasitic draw is about 50mA or 0.05 amps, but the range can be anywhere from about 0.03 to 0.085 amps (30-85mA). - Source: Internet
• A digital multimeter is best for this test as opposed to an analog one, which is not as accurately read. A DMM with the ability to measure continuous current to 10A will be fine in most cases, though one rated 20A would be less prone to blowing a fuse. You also need a milliamp range for higher resolution to pick up minimal current draw as most faults tend to be of the trickle variety. - Source: Internet
• Some of newer vehicles can be a real pain to diagnose parasitic draw test with a multimeter due to all the added electrical circuits, computers and control modules. You have electric mirrors, heated memory seats, GPS, trackers, and a slew of gadgets. Some of these systems are interlinked, exacerbating the problem. - Source: Internet
• This might be an issue if you leave the car parked for many weeks without starting it. Imagine the confusion of a car parked near the elevator door in a busy parking structure. Every proximity key that walks past makes it sit up and beg, draining your battery for a few minutes. Soon, dead battery. - Source: Internet
• One of the most basic household purposes to use a multimeter is battery testing. The simplest way to check a (AA) battery, is generally used in remote control of the TV. To check whether it is in good condition or not, connect it to a multimeter’s test probes and measure its voltage or amperage. If you have wondered how to test a battery with a multimeter, this guide will walk you through it. - Source: Internet
• Unplug any power-draining cables from the lighter socket, such as a cellphone charger or GPS. Even if the device itself is unplugged from the charger, the plug may still consume a few milliamps of current. Got an ear-bleedin’ stereo amp in the trunk? Pull the fuse, because it may be in standby mode rather than completely shut down. - Source: Internet
• When you do this test, you need to watch the meter closely because the numbers will drop very quickly, and then, the alternator will kick in, and the numbers will go up over 14 if everything is working well. This is not the number you are looking for, and you will need to try to see the lowest number as the car starts. If you miss it, you can do the test again, provided that your battery has enough charge left. Before starting over, you should let the car charge on the alternator for about 5 minutes and then begin by leaving your car lights on with the engine off again before retesting for CCA. - Source: Internet
• You’ve determined you have excessive current draw from the battery. Now you have to figure out where. If it’s not obvious, like the trunk light not going off, you have to get methodical. You can throw caution to the wind and start pulling fuses one at a time, until you see the excess drain drop off. Just be careful to get them back into the right socket. - Source: Internet
• CAUTION: car batteries should never be overcharged. Once they reach full charge, it is time to unplug the charger. This is where smart units are advantageous, preventing damage and thus extra cost. Also, avoid running a known bad battery as you could end up ruining the alternator. They are built to maintain charge as opposed to keeping dead ones alive. - Source: Internet
• To get the right results, I recommend you get a multimeter that can record a reading of up to 20 amps. This is because a fully charged battery will read 12.6 volts. Then set the dial to read amps. - Source: Internet
• There are different types of automotive battery chargers, from basic 2A trickle chargers to more expensive 10A general purpose devices. So-called smart chargers adjust their voltage output depending on the status of the battery and can charge faster and more efficiently. There is also less chance of overcharging and they can detect whether the batter is 6V or 12V, as well as the type (such as wet or gel cell) and adjust the output accordingly. - Source: Internet
• The old method detailed above – disconnecting the battery, putting the multimeter in series and pulling fuses until you find the draw – might not work as effectively on these cars. This is because the very disconnecting of the battery may temporarily fix the issue by sending the system to sleep along with the error. You don’t want this; you want the fault to keep drawing current so you can diagnose it on your meter. - Source: Internet
• You can check for voltage drop between the battery terminals and cables by first testing on the terminal and then on the wire crimps going out. Anything over around 0.1V less than what is coming out of the terminals suggests high resistance/bad connection. Clean the terminals/connections with sandpaper and tighten them up. - Source: Internet
• The photo below shows the meter measuring current on a small fan in a circuit that we’ve removed from a car for clarity. The positive battery terminal is connected to the positive terminal of the fan. The fan’s negative terminal is connected to the meter’s red lead, and the meter’s black lead is connected to the negative battery terminal. You can’t read the meter’s display, but it is showing about 5 amps. - Source: Internet
• When to change your car battery depends on the battery’s quality, how well you take care of your battery, and the weather. Storing it at the proper temperature, avoiding leaving your lights on overnight, discharging it to low levels, and other factors all determine how often you need to replace a car battery. The bottom line is that if you are experiencing any of the symptoms of a battery that is having problems, it is best to test it and change it if it is needed. Battery problems do not fix themselves, and they only worsen over time, until eventually, you end up stranded, and your car will not start. - Source: Internet
• It’s a wonder a car battery can stay charged anymore. RE: Amp Draw on Car Battery MacGyverS2000 (Electrical) 15 Mar 17 12:04 VE1/Comco has the answer… Dan - Owner - Source: Internet
• On occasion, a battery may experience significant drain long after the engine has been shut off. The result can often lead to a flat, caused not by a faulty battery or through something obvious like the headlights being left on. It typically happens due to a short circuit that can be tricky to pin down. - Source: Internet
• After charging, perform the same test as above to see if the battery now registers in the 12.6V range. If not, consider getting it checked out fully prior to a replacement. - Source: Internet
• High temperatures are not good for automobiles. Lead sulfate crystals begin to build in the severe temperatures. It may ruin the battery life for sure. So, make sure to park the vehicles away from extreme temperatures. - Source: Internet
• Renee RE: Amp Draw on Car Battery 3DDave (Aerospace) 13 Mar 17 22:10 Probably capacitors. Put a voltmeter across the leads and see if the voltage is maintained for a while after the terminal is disconnected from the battery. It may not show up if the caps are charged via diodes. In that case, pull the fuses from any control modules and see if the same thing happens. - Source: Internet
• Leaving lights, AC, or radio ON for the whole night is the basic reason for battery exhausting. Even the small internal lights pull great amps after the engine is OFF. The amp of lights is more than the normal amp draw car battery. It drains the battery all night and the next day your car does not respond. - Source: Internet
• There are a few common signs of a bad battery. One obvious sign would be the complete absence of any lights or cranking when you try to turn on the car. Another would be the engine cranking laboriously but not actually starting. This one is less clear, but more times than not, it’s the battery. - Source: Internet
• At this point you’re ready to start the car with the charged battery. Let it run for 5-10 minutes. After waiting, go ahead and try to start the car with the previously dead battery. If it starts, let it idle for at least 20 minutes if you don’t plan on immediately driving. If you do take off right away, drive for at least 5-10 miles to completely charge the battery back up. - Source: Internet
• If the battery is not reading the proper voltage with the multimeter, the first thing you should check is whether there is corrosion on the posts. If there is, you can disconnect the battery cable ends and terminals with sandpaper or a wire brush. Reconnect the battery cables, always starting with the positive cable first and retesting the battery, starting with step 3 on this list. Please make sure the cables are tight enough and can’t be pulled off of the posts easily by hand. - Source: Internet
• Start hunting by putting your ammeter in series with the battery’s ground circuit. Disconnect the battery’s ground cable and wire the ammeter in series between the battery terminal and the cable. Start with the meter on the highest range, probably 10 or 20 amps. Warning! Doing something silly, like trying to start the car or turn on the headlights—anything that draws more than the meter’s rated capacity—can blow the meter’s fuse. - Source: Internet
• We have observed our reading is 14.73, which is also an excellent number for the cold-cranking amps value. If the initial reading is around 5V, your battery is working but will go bad. If the measured value is below 5V, now you should replace your battery. - Source: Internet
• Note that there’s a way around all of this: You can buy what’s called a “current clamp meter,” which has a set of hinged jaws that surround the cable whose current you want to measure. It then senses the electric field inductively without your having to “splice” the meter into the circuit. These come in a few different flavors. There are clamp meters that only measure current, general purpose multimeters with integrated clamps, and clamp attachments that plug into standard meters. - Source: Internet
• You should have a fully charged battery before starting – voltage would be around 12.6V for a good one. Be sure to close all doors, turn off the radio and disconnect accessories, such as smartphones and add-on GPS devices. Even a key in the ignition can have systems waking up on newer cars that will initiate draw. - Source: Internet
• This article will be limited to the standard car battery and starting-lighting-ignition (SLI) batteries used in cars, SUVs, trucks, and vans. This tutorial explores how to test a car battery, how to check to see if it is the battery, how to load test a car battery to see if it is good, how to check battery life, and how to know if it is time for a replacement. With only about $20 of equipment, you can know if your battery is good and only needs a charge, or if it is time to replace it. - Source: Internet
• The display should read a value that is just short of 9Volt. Because this battery has been in use for some time, it shows a reading of 8.74Volts, which is still sufficient to supply current to the load. - Source: Internet
• Alternator fault?: if you’ve gone through all fuses and relays (and checked for other fuse boxes), oftentimes the alternator can be at fault. One of the diodes may have shorted out and caused current to drain back to the battery. Test it with the multimeter before and after unplugging. - Source: Internet

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