100 Checking Fluorescent Light Fixture Tips

This time, we’re going to talk about How To Check A Fluorescent Light Fixture. There is a lot of information about How To Check Voltage On Fluorescent Light Fixture on the internet, of course. Social media are getting better and better quickly, which makes it easier for us to learn new things.

how to test fluorescent light fixture with multimeter and How to Test a Fluorescent Bulb are also linked to information about How To Check Voltage On Fluorescent Light Fixture. As for other things that need to be looked up, they are about How to Test for a Complete Circuit in a Light Bulb Holder and have something to do with how to check power to a fluorescent light fixture.

100 Tips to How To Check A Fluorescent Light Fixture | How To Test Fluorescent Tube With Multimeter

• T12 fluorescent tubes. The first two are rapid start, (for “tombstone” and socket holders respectively) while the third is an instant-start lamp. The instant-start has a characteristic, rounded, single pin, for plugging into the spring-loaded socket holders. - Source: Internet
• Magnetic ballasts are the old-time workhorses in the fluorescent world. They are inexpensive and will give 10 to 20 years of service. There were some fluorescent fixtures in my father’s gas station that were over 40 years old and still working!! - Source: Internet
• If the problem is not in the tube, try changing the starter. Fluorescent lamp starters are rated by wattage, and it’s important you use the right starter for the tube in your fixture. Remove the old starter the same way you removed the old tube, by twisting it out of its socket in the fixture. Install a new one by inserting it into the socket and twisting it to lock it into place. - Source: Internet
• The ballast is a rectangular metal or plastic component resembling a small box with wires issuing from both ends. To test it, install a working fluorescent tube and a new starter. If the light malfunctions, the ballast is at fault and must be replaced. - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent lamps convert more of the input power to visible light than incandescent lamps. A typical 100 watt tungsten filament incandescent lamp may convert only 5% of its power input to visible white light (400–700 nm wavelength), whereas typical fluorescent lamps convert about 22% of the power input to visible white light.[31]: 20 - Source: Internet
• Thus, the most reliable way to test a fluorescent bulb is to install it into a known working fixture. If you are troubleshooting a 4-tube fluorescent fixture, this is easy! Just remove one of the still-working pair of fluorescent tubes and replace it with each of the questionable tubes, one at a time. 99% of the time it will be one of the tubes that is the culprit. - Source: Internet
• preheat fluorescent lamp circuit using an automatic starting switch. A: Fluorescent tube, B: Power (+220 volts), C: Starter, D: Switch (bi-metallic thermostat), E: Capacitor, F: Filaments, G: Ballast fluorescent lamp circuit using an automatic starting switch. A: Fluorescent tube, B: Power (+220 volts), C: Starter, D: Switch (bi-metallic thermostat), E: Capacitor, F: Filaments, G: Ballast - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent bulbs can also be tested with the help of a device called multi-meter. Multi-meter is used for finding defects in electronic objects. They help in finding the voltage, current and resistance in an electronic circuit or electronic devices. The nodes or pins that are at the end of a fluorescent bulb should be tested with the help of a multi-meter. - Source: Internet
• Grow lamps contain phosphor blends that encourage photosynthesis, growth, or flowering in plants, algae, photosynthetic bacteria, and other light-dependent organisms. These often emit light primarily in the red and blue color range, which is absorbed by chlorophyll and used for photosynthesis in plants.[77] - Source: Internet
• You’re trying to get one of your lights working properly again. You’ve already ruled out a bad bulb and you’ve established that the socket has power coming in, but the bulb still won’t come on. So now you’re ready to make sure the final piece of the power path—back to the source through the neutral—is in good shape. It’s at this point that you test for a complete circuit. - Source: Internet
• [1] Typical F71T12 100 W G13 bi-pin lamp used in tanning beds. The (Hg) symbol indicates that this lamp contains mercury . In the US, this symbol is now required on all mercury-containing fluorescent lamps. - Source: Internet
• A cold-cathode fluorescent lamp from an emergency-exit sign. Operating at a much higher voltage than other fluorescents, the lamp produces a low-amperage glow discharge rather than an arc, similar to a neon light . Without direct connection to line voltage, current is limited by the transformer alone, negating the need for a ballast. - Source: Internet
• Electronic starters only attempt to start a lamp for a short time when power is initially applied, and do not repeatedly attempt to restrike a lamp that is dead and unable to sustain an arc; some automatically stop trying to start a failed lamp.[36] This eliminates the re-striking of a lamp and the continuous flashing of a failing lamp with a glow starter. Electronic starters are not subject to wear and do not need replacing periodically, although they may fail like any other electronic circuit. Manufacturers typically quote lives of 20 years, or as long as the light fitting.[38][39] - Source: Internet
• The gas used in the fluorescent tube must be ionized before the arc can “strike” . For small lamps, it does not take much voltage to strike the arc and starting the lamp presents no problem, but larger tubes require a substantial voltage (in the range of a thousand volts). Many different starting circuits have been used. The choice of circuit is based on cost, AC voltage, tube length, instant versus non-instant starting, temperature ranges and parts availability. - Source: Internet
• There’s a way to do this for every type of holder we use. The size and shape of the bulbs may vary, and they may be incandescent, fluorescent, halogen, or LED bulbs, but they all have one thing in common: They have to have power coming in, going through the bulb, and returning to the source. They won’t work without that. And, in most cases, you should be able to restore that function. You’ll need a multimeter to do some testing. - Source: Internet
• Frequent switching (more than every 3 hours) will shorten the life of lamps. [54] Each start cycle slightly erodes the electron-emitting surface of the cathodes; when all the emission material is gone, the lamp cannot start with the available ballast voltage. Fixtures for flashing lights (such as for advertising) use a ballast that maintains cathode temperature when the arc is off, preserving the life of the lamp. - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent lamps may produce flicker at the power supply frequency (50 or 60 Hz), which is noticeable by more people. This happens if a damaged or failed cathode results in slight rectification and uneven light output in positive and negative going AC cycles. Power frequency flicker can be emitted from the ends of the tubes, if each tube electrode produces a slightly different light output pattern on each half-cycle. Flicker at power frequency is more noticeable in the peripheral vision than it is when viewed directly. - Source: Internet
• Thomas Edison briefly pursued fluorescent lighting for its commercial potential. He invented a fluorescent lamp in 1896 that used a coating of calcium tungstate as the fluorescing substance, excited by X-rays, but although it received a patent in 1907,[6] it was not put into production. As with a few other attempts to use Geissler tubes for illumination, it had a short operating life, and given the success of the incandescent light, Edison had little reason to pursue an alternative means of electrical illumination. Nikola Tesla made similar experiments in the 1890s, devising high-frequency powered fluorescent bulbs that gave a bright greenish light, but as with Edison’s devices, no commercial success was achieved. - Source: Internet
• Allows testing without removing the tube from the ballast. The tester sends a pulse of energy that lights up the tube if there is gas in it. The 1000FLT is compatible with T5, T8, and T12 fluorescent tubes. Ballast test: Easily determines whether the ballast is working. - Source: Internet
• Since the 1990s, higher-quality fluorescent lamps use triphosphor mixture, based on europium and terbium ions, which have emission bands more evenly distributed over the spectrum of visible light. Triphosphor tubes gives a more natural color reproduction to the human eye. The CRI of such lamps is typically 85. - Source: Internet
• In US residences, fluorescent lamps are mostly found in kitchens, basements, or garages, but schools and businesses find the cost savings of fluorescent lamps to be significant and rarely use incandescent lights. Electricity costs, tax incentives and building codes result in higher use in places such as California. Fluorescent use is declining as LED lighting, which is more energy efficient and doesn’t contain mercury, is replacing fluorescents.[citation needed] - Source: Internet
• One thing to note here is that, unlike fixtures that use other types of bulbs, many straight-tube fluorescent fixtures need to have a good connection to the ground to work properly. That connection should be visible as a green or bare conductor—wire—that’s terminated under a green hex-heat screw near the ballast. Look at it carefully to see if there’s a bare spot behind the wire to allow the ground to make good contact. - Source: Internet
• A stroboscopic effect can be noticed, where something spinning at just the right speed may appear stationary if illuminated solely by a single fluorescent lamp. This effect is eliminated by paired lamps operating on a lead-lag ballast. Unlike a true strobe lamp, the light level drops in appreciable time and so substantial “blurring” of the moving part would be evident. - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent lamps emit a small amount of ultraviolet (UV) light. A 1993 study in the US found that ultraviolet exposure from sitting under fluorescent lights for eight hours is equivalent to one minute of sun exposure.[62] Ultraviolet radiation from compact fluorescent lamps may exacerbate symptoms in photosensitive individuals.[63][64][65] - Source: Internet
• Turn off power to the fixture. Lift the fixture diffuser or cover (if installed) and tubes to access the starter, a round plug-in component attached near the larger ballast. Twist out the old starter and replace it with one that has the identical part number and rating. A hardware clerk can help you select the proper replacement. - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent bulbs have toxic mercury in them, which makes it harder for people to dispose of them than the normal bulbs. In many places, there are specific ways in which fluorescent bulbs should be disposed of, and anyone who does otherwise will be punished. Proper testing of any electronic device is a must to avoid any easily avoidable accidents. - Source: Internet
• Electrodeless induction lamps are fluorescent lamps without internal electrodes. They have been commercially available since 1990. A current is induced into the gas column using electromagnetic induction. Because the electrodes are usually the life-limiting element of fluorescent lamps, such electrodeless lamps can have a very long service life, although they also have a higher purchase price. - Source: Internet
• You might consider replacing some of your old incandescent fixtures with fluorescent lamps. Fluorescent light provides even and shadow-free illumination, but, best of all, fluorescent bulbs are more efficient than incandescent bulbs. In an incandescent bulb, much of the electric power is discharged as heat instead of light. The fluorescent bulb, in contrast, remains cool. - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent light fixtures cannot be connected to dimmer switches intended for incandescent lamps. Two effects are responsible for this: the waveform of the voltage emitted by a standard phase-control dimmer interacts badly with many ballasts, and it becomes difficult to sustain an arc in the fluorescent tube at low power levels. Dimming installations require a compatible dimming ballast. Some models of compact fluorescent lamps can be dimmed; in the United States, such lamps are identified as complying with UL standard 1993.[74] - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent lamps come in many shapes and sizes.[49] The compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) is becoming more popular. Many compact fluorescent lamps integrate the auxiliary electronics into the base of the lamp, allowing them to fit into a regular light bulb socket. - Source: Internet
• In most cases, the switch screws into a threaded mounting nut on the inside of the lamp. Two wires from the switch are connected, usually with wirenuts, to four wires from the fluorescent tube. Disassemble the fixture as far as necessary to gain access to the back of the switch, then screw in the new switch and transfer wires from the old switch to the new one, one at a time to avoid an incorrect connection. Reassemble the fixture, and reenergize the circuit. - Source: Internet
• When my customers ask my advice in this matter, I always lean to the aesthetic first. Do they like the appearance of the fixture? If not, add one point to the “replace it” side. Then I confront the ceiling repair issue. If the new fixture is smaller or has a different “footprint” than the original fixture, the ceiling may need to be repainted to cover the unpainted area under the old fixture. Sometimes, ceiling texture also has to be touched up after a fixture is taken down! - Source: Internet
• On the home repair scale of 1 to 10 (10 being hardest), repairing a fluorescent fixture is a 3 or 4… fairly simple but some basic electrical skills are necessary, such as being able to identify wires by color, stripping insulation from the ends of cut wires, installing wire nuts and reading instructions. I added the first and last with tongue in cheek… I know most of you are not color-blind and most of you can read… or you wouldn’t be here! - Source: Internet
• Low-mercury designs of lamps may fail when mercury is absorbed by the glass tube, phosphor, and internal components, and is no longer available to vaporize in the fill gas. Loss of mercury initially causes an extended warm-up time to full light output, and finally causes the lamp to glow a dim pink when the argon gas takes over as the primary discharge.[45] - Source: Internet
• The older version of fluorescent bulbs will have a cylindrical object called a starter. It is a main component of the bulb, which ignites a gas which in turn helps the bulb to emit light. If this starter has any problem or defect, the light bulb won’t glow; hence, the starter should be changed. - Source: Internet
• Typically a fluorescent lamp will last 10 to 20 times as long as an equivalent incandescent lamp when operated several hours at a time. Under standard test conditions fluorescent lamps last 6,000 to 80,000 hours (2 to 27 years at 8 hours per day).[52] - Source: Internet
• At about the same time that Moore was developing his lighting system, Peter Cooper Hewitt invented the mercury-vapor lamp, patented in 1901 (US 682692 ). Hewitt’s lamp glowed when an electric current was passed through mercury vapor at a low pressure. Unlike Moore’s lamps, Hewitt’s were manufactured in standardized sizes and operated at low voltages. The mercury-vapor lamp was superior to the incandescent lamps of the time in terms of energy efficiency, but the blue-green light it produced limited its applications. It was, however, used for photography and some industrial processes. - Source: Internet
• Go online to find replacement ballasts for your specific make and model of fluorescent lights. Purchase one with nearly identical specifications as your old one, including voltage (120 volts or 240 volts), wattage, and amperage draw (60 watts max). If you cannot find an exact match, use a ballast with a slightly higher amperage than what was previously installed in your fixture. - Source: Internet
• After hearing this story more than a few times, Fluke decided to develop a tool that takes the trial and error-and a significant amount of time-out of maintaining fluorescent lighting. The result is the Fluke 1000FLT Fluorescent Light Tester, designed to meet the needs of building maintenance professionals. It is a fluorescent lamp tester, ballast tester, non-contact voltage tester, pin continuity tester, and ballast-type discriminator, all in one. - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent lamps are a non-linear load and generate harmonic currents in the electrical power supply. The arc within the lamp may generate radio frequency noise, which can be conducted through power wiring. Suppression of radio interference is possible. Very good suppression is possible, but adds to the cost of the fluorescent fixtures. - Source: Internet
• If replacing both the starter and the tube did not make the light work and the wiring was intact, then the problem is definitely in the ballast. If noise is the only problem, get a low-noise ballast, which is clearly marked as such. If the light is operated in temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenehit - Source: Internet
• " " ©2006 Publications International, Ltd.To install a new fluorescent tube, insert the tube’s prongs into the holder and twist the tube to lock it into place. Change the tube when it dims, flickers, or flashes on and off. - Source: Internet
• If this does not help, try wiggling the tube gently in its sockets by rocking it back and forth and from side to side. This will scour away minute deposits of corrosion or dust that can sometimes hinder the flow of electricity. Be sure to do this when the light switch is turned off. - Source: Internet
• The ballast is a magnetic coil that adjusts the current through the tube. It makes a surge of current arc through the tube when the starter opens, and then it keeps the current flowing at the right rate once the tube is glowing. In most fluorescent fixtures, the starter is an automatic switch. Once it senses that the lamp is glowing, it stays open. The starter closes whenever you deenergize the fixture. - Source: Internet
• Some fluorescent lighting testers on the market may have one or two testing features. But Fluke wanted to develop a device that takes care of all the essential lighting tests, thus saving workers time, space in their tool bags, and trips up and down ladders. So, rather than having to carry two or three testing tools or call an electrician, they can just carry the 1000FLT to perform: - Source: Internet
• So if it’s your job to make sure that all those tubes are doing their job, you have quite a bit of ground to cover. In the past that meant a lot of trial and error. If you found a light that was out, you’d have to climb the ladder, open up the cover, remove the bad tube and replace it. If the new tube didn’t light, you either tried again or had to call an electrician or bring out a voltage tester. That took more time and you hadn’t solved the problem yet. - Source: Internet
• If the tube, the starter, and the ballast are all working properly but the lamp still doesn’t light, check for a defective switch. If the lamp is controlled by a wall switch, replace the switch, as detailed in the next section. If the lamp has a push-button switch, the old switch can be replaced by a new one of the same type. To deenergize the circuit before working on the switch, remove the circuit’s fuse or trip the circuit breaker. - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent lamps are negative differential resistance devices, so as more current flows through them, the electrical resistance of the fluorescent lamp drops, allowing for even more current to flow. Connected directly to a constant-voltage power supply, a fluorescent lamp would rapidly self-destruct because of the uncontrolled current flow. To prevent this, fluorescent lamps must use a ballast to regulate the current flow through the lamp. - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent tubes are long, low-luminance sources compared with high pressure arc lamps, incandescent lamps and LEDs. However, low luminous intensity of the emitting surface is useful because it reduces glare. Lamp fixture design must control light from a long tube instead of a compact globe. The compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) replaces regular incandescent bulbs in many light fixtures where space permits. - Source: Internet
• If a fluorescent lamp is broken, a very small amount of mercury can contaminate the surrounding environment. About 99% of the mercury is typically contained in the phosphor, especially on lamps that are near the end of their life.[57] Broken lamps may release mercury if not cleaned with correct methods.[58][failed verification] - Source: Internet
• Turn off the circuit breaker that supplies power to the fluorescent light fixture. If you have an older fixture with multiple ballasts, turn off all of them. Use a voltage tester to verify that there is no current present at the end of each ballast wire. - Source: Internet
• Simple inductive fluorescent lamp ballasts have a power factor of less than unity. Inductive ballasts include power factor correction capacitors. Simple electronic ballasts may also have low power factor due to their rectifier input stage. - Source: Internet
• Since introduction in the 1990s, high-frequency ballasts have been used in general lighting fixtures with either rapid start or pre-heat lamps. These ballasts convert the incoming power to an output frequency in excess of 20 kHz. This increases lamp efficiency.[44] These ballasts operate with voltages that can be almost 600 volts, requiring some consideration in housing design, and can cause a minor limitation in the length of the wire leads from the ballast to the lamp ends. - Source: Internet
• This Fix-It Guide tells how efficient fluorescent lighting works, what often goes wrong, how to identify a fluorescent lighting problem, and what parts and tools you will need to fix it. It then gives step-by-step instructions for fluorescent lighting starter replacement, ballast replacement, and socket replacement. Because they are simple in operation, fluorescent lighting systems are also easy to repair. - Source: Internet
• One of the primary and most common ways to test a fluorescent bulb is by checking for any issues on the surface area of the bulb itself. The fluorescent bulbs, when used for a longer period of time, may wear off. When these bulbs wear off, there will be brown spots that start to appear at the bottom of the bulbs. - Source: Internet
• The old ballast will have copper wires coming out of it and into your old fluorescent light fixtures. Disconnect these wires by cutting them with wire cutters. Then wrap them in electrical tape so they don’t touch any metal parts of your house or other wires that may still be live with electricity (this could cause a shock). Place them in a plastic bag, seal them tightly and throw them away in an outdoor trashcan where children won’t find them and be tempted to play with them (or put them back into use). - Source: Internet
• Using an amalgam with some other metal reduces the vapor pressure and extends the optimum temperature range upward; however, the bulb wall “cold spot” temperature must still be controlled to prevent condensing. High-output fluorescent lamps have features such as a deformed tube or internal heat-sinks to control cold spot temperature and mercury distribution. Heavily loaded small lamps, such as compact fluorescent lamps, also include heat-sink areas in the tube to maintain mercury vapor pressure at the optimum value. - Source: Internet
• To remove the dust and rust from the socket, remove the bulb and then clear the socket with the help of paper towels. Rubbing sandpaper on the tip of the nodes of the bulb helps to get rid of the dust and rust from getting accumulated in the lights. After getting rid of the dust and rust, you need to test the bulb by installing it in an electronic circuit. - Source: Internet
• Lamp test: Allows testing without removing the tube from the ballast. The tester sends a pulse of energy that lights up the tube if there is gas in it. The 1000FLT is compatible with T5, T8, and T12 fluorescent tubes. - Source: Internet
• One had black rings at the base of the bulb glass. It looked like a regular florescent tube with dark ends as it goes bad. If memory serves correct, this was a high duty cycle fixture - it turned on and off a lot. - Source: Internet
• " " A fluorescent fixture has three main parts – the bulb, ballast, and starter. When one of these components malfunctions, replacement is usually the answer. ©2006 Publications International, Ltd. - Source: Internet
• A fluorescent starter is a little gray metallic cylinder that plugs into a socket attached to the fixture’s frame. Its function is to send a delayed shot of high-voltage electricity to the gas within the fluorescent bulb. The delay allows the gas to become ionized so that it can conduct electricity. Because this process is not instantaneous, the bulbs will flicker for a few seconds before lighting. Hence, a defective starter can cause either flickering or total darkness! - Source: Internet
• Turn off the power to the light fixture at the circuit breaker panel by flipping off a switch or removing a fuse from its slot. Remove any covers from the fixture so you can access all components. Loosen screws holding the ballast in place and pull it out with your hands, pulling straight up on it if possible. - Source: Internet
• If you want some good technical information of testing ballasts, the most complete source I have found on-line is The Lighting Center, at http://www.thelightingcenter.com/lcenter/technica.htm. - Source: Internet
• If you would like an in depth look at how fluorescent fixtures work, visit “How Stuff Works” for a detailed, high brow explanation, at http://www.howstuffworks.com/fluorescent-lamp.htm - Source: Internet
• Only a fraction of the electrical energy input into a lamp is converted to useful light. The ballast dissipates some heat; electronic ballasts may be around 90% efficient. A fixed voltage drop occurs at the electrodes, which also produces heat. Some of the energy in the mercury vapor column is also dissipated, but about 85% is turned into visible and ultraviolet light. - Source: Internet
• When shopping for a new fluorescent tube, compare lumens (brightness), wattage and life expectancy. Most manufacturers print this information on the cartons. Bulbs typically last for at least a year, often much longer. - Source: Internet
• Not all the UV radiation striking the phosphor coating is converted to visible light; some energy is lost. The largest single loss in modern lamps is due to the lower energy of each photon of visible light, compared to the energy of the UV photons that generated them (a phenomenon called Stokes shift). Incident photons have an energy of 5.5 electron volts but produce visible light photons with energy around 2.5 electron volts, so only 45% of the UV energy is used; the rest is dissipated as heat. - Source: Internet
• If you’re the building maintenance technician for a commercial, retail, or institutional facility with fluorescent lighting, you probably have hundreds or thousands of fluorescent tubes that have to be kept working. And even though those tubes last for tens of thousands of hours, they do fail, some prematurely. And some stop working because of other problems with the ballast they are installed in. - Source: Internet
• New fluorescent lamps may show a twisting spiral pattern of light in a part of the lamp. This effect is due to loose cathode material and usually disappears after a few hours of operation.[31]: 22 - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent lamps with electronic ballasts do not flicker, since above about 5 kHz, the excited electron state half-life is longer than a half cycle,[citation needed] and light production becomes continuous. Operating frequencies of electronic ballasts are selected to avoid interference with infrared remote controls. Poor quality or faulty electronic ballasts may have considerable 100/120 Hz modulation of the light. - Source: Internet
• High CCT lighting generally requires higher light levels. At dimmer illumination levels, the human eye perceives lower color temperatures as more pleasant, as related through the Kruithof curve. So, a dim 2700 K incandescent lamp appears comfortable and a bright 5000 K lamp also appears natural, but a dim 5000 K fluorescent lamp appears too pale. Daylight-type fluorescents look natural only if they are very bright. - Source: Internet
• A fluorescent lamp, or fluorescent tube, is a low-pressure mercury-vapor gas-discharge lamp that uses fluorescence to produce visible light. An electric current in the gas excites mercury vapor, which produces short-wave ultraviolet light that then causes a phosphor coating on the inside of the lamp to glow. A fluorescent lamp converts electrical energy into useful light much more efficiently than an incandescent lamp. The typical luminous efficacy of fluorescent lighting systems is 50–100 lumens per watt, several times the efficacy of incandescent bulbs with comparable light output. For comparison, the luminous efficacy of an incandescent bulb may only be 16 lumens per watt. - Source: Internet
• The 1000FLT user interface was designed to be as simple as possible, and it is. All of these tests deliver instant results. The ballast, voltage, and pin continuity tests indicate results with either a “Go” or “No Go” indicator lights. The ballast-type discriminator lights up either the “magnetic” or “electronic” LED on the face of the tester, while the lamp test result is determined by the user if the tube lights up or not. - Source: Internet
• One of the most practical methods to test a fluorescent bulb is by testing it on a working light fixture. More often than not, it is the light fixtures that would have a defect and not the light bulbs. So, it is always better to switch from one light fixture to another to test the defectiveness of the light bulb. - Source: Internet
• An effective way to test the effectiveness of a fluorescent light bulb is by checking the electric circuit itself. This involves checking of the switch, the breaker and also the circuit in which the light bulb is connected. It is only common sense to make sure that no wire has been tripped due to any short circuits or any electrical faults. - Source: Internet
• A flickering fluorescent bulb means that it or one of a dependent pair of bulbs in the fixture has bought the farm. In many fluorescent fixtures, power is sent through a pair of bulbs. If either bulb is bad, they may both flicker or one may flicker and the other show no life. - Source: Internet
• So-called blacklite blue lamps are also made from more expensive deep purple glass known as Wood’s glass rather than clear glass. The deep purple glass filters out most of the visible colors of light directly emitted by the mercury-vapor discharge, producing proportionally less visible light compared with UV light. This allows UV-induced fluorescence to be seen more easily (thereby allowing blacklight posters to seem much more dramatic). The blacklight lamps used in bug zappers do not require this refinement so it is usually omitted in the interest of cost; they are called simply blacklite (and not blacklite blue). - Source: Internet
• The fill gas helps determine the electrical characteristics of the lamp but does not give off light itself. The fill gas effectively increases the distance that electrons travel through the tube, which allows an electron a greater chance of interacting with a mercury atom. Additionally, argon atoms, excited to a metastable state by the impact of an electron, can impart energy to a mercury atom and ionize it, described as the Penning effect. This lowers the breakdown and operating voltage of the lamp, compared to other possible fill gases such as krypton.[26] - Source: Internet
• All the major features of fluorescent lighting were in place at the end of the 1920s. Decades of invention and development had provided the key components of fluorescent lamps: economically manufactured glass tubing, inert gases for filling the tubes, electrical ballasts, long-lasting electrodes, mercury vapor as a source of luminescence, effective means of producing a reliable electrical discharge, and fluorescent coatings that could be energized by ultraviolet light. At this point, intensive development was more important than basic research. - Source: Internet
• The third type of failure I have seen was a catastrophic failure of the glass bulb. I turned the light on and the glass jumped right off of the base. I think it had been struck and had cracked. Turning the light on finished the job and the bulb broke in half. There is a mercury exposure risk to this type of failure. - Source: Internet
• To the left is a graphic of a two ballast, four-bulb fluorescent lamp system, with the ballast cover off to expose the wiring. One look at the spaghetti-like wiring could make anyone lose their appetite! But get the Rolaids… all is not lost! Within that snarly mess is order… just follow the colors! - Source: Internet
• Because the formation of an arc requires the thermionic emission of large quantities of electrons from the cathode, rapid start ballast designs provide windings within the ballast that continuously warm the cathode filaments. Usually operating at a lower arc voltage than the instant start design; no inductive voltage spike is produced for starting, so the lamps must be mounted near a grounded (earthed) reflector to allow the glow discharge to propagate through the tube and initiate the arc discharge via capacitive coupling. In some lamps a grounded “starting aid” strip is attached to the outside of the lamp glass. This ballast type is incompatible with the European energy saver T8 fluorescent lamps because these lamps requires a higher starting voltage than that of the open circuit voltage of rapid start ballasts. - Source: Internet
• The fluorescence of certain rocks and other substances had been observed for hundreds of years before its nature was understood. By the middle of the 19th century, experimenters had observed a radiant glow emanating from partially evacuated glass vessels through which an electric current passed. One of the first to explain it was the Irish scientist Sir George Stokes from the University of Cambridge in 1852, who named the phenomenon “fluorescence” after fluorite, a mineral many of whose samples glow strongly because of impurities. The explanation relied on the nature of electricity and light phenomena as developed by the British scientists Michael Faraday in the 1840s and James Clerk Maxwell in the 1860s.[4] - Source: Internet
• This can be done in two ways. The first one involves opening the wiring compartment and testing for 120VAC, hot-to-neutral and hot-to-ground, on the wires coming into it. If there’s a problem there that can be fixed, great. If that checks out okay, though, it’s usually time to replace either the ballast or the whole fixture. - Source: Internet
• Blacklights are a subset of fluorescent lamps that are used to provide near ultraviolet light (at about 360 nm wavelength). They are built in the same fashion as conventional fluorescent lamps but the glass tube is coated with a phosphor that converts the short-wave UV within the tube to long-wave UV rather than to visible light. They are used to provoke fluorescence (to provide dramatic effects using blacklight paint and to detect materials such as urine and certain dyes that would be invisible in visible light) as well as to attract insects to bug zappers. - Source: Internet
• Some of the least pleasant light comes from tubes containing the older, halophosphate-type phosphors (chemical formula Ca 5 (PO 4 ) 3 (F, Cl):Sb3+, Mn2+). This phosphor mainly emits yellow and blue light, and relatively little green and red. In the absence of a reference, this mixture appears white to the eye, but the light has an incomplete spectrum. The color rendering index (CRI) of such lamps is around 60. - Source: Internet
• The ballast is also rated according to wattage, and a replacement ballast – like a replacement starter – must match the wattage of the tube and the type of fixture. The ballast is the least likely part to fail and most difficult to replace, so leave the ballast for last when you start replacing parts. If neither the tube nor the starter is defective, the problem must be the ballast. To replace a faulty ballast, deenergize the circuit, disassemble the fixture, transfer wires from the old ballast to the new one – one at a time, to avoid an incorrect connection – and, finally, reassemble the - Source: Internet
• The first component to check is the starter. This is a small cylinder, approximately 2 inches long and usually silver colored. Its purpose is to accumulate current briefly when the light is switched on and then release it after the tube is lighted. - Source: Internet
• Starters are rated by wattage to the bulbs they will control. If you have a fixture but have misplaced the starter, write down the wattage of any of the fluorescent tubes and take that information to the hardware store, lest you be scolded by the mean clerk and sent home without supper… or a starter. - Source: Internet
• A defective ballast in your fluorescent fixture may make you want to sink it in the nearest pond! Indeed, the cost of replacing the ballast in a fixture may rival the cost of a new fixture… especially if you want to use a modern electronic ballast that lights the bulbs faster, runs cooler and is virtually hum-free. (Yes, Virginia, that hum when you flip on the fluorescent lamp is from the ballast, not the bulbs!) - Source: Internet
• Tests whether filaments in the tube have continuity. Ballast-type discriminator: The 1000FLT is the first multi-function tester to include this feature to allow technicians to easily identify whether the ballast is electronic or magnetic without taking the fixture apart and without even climbing a ladder. Just aim the tester at the ballast from the ground and it will immediately identify which type you have. This helps quickly identify old-style, power hungry magnetic ballasts, for maintenance or replacement. - Source: Internet
• First and foremost… look at the bulbs! If either bulb appears to be very dark near either end the bulb is defective or close to failure. Note the upper bulb in the left graphic… it is definitely approaching its golden years! Though this bulb is still producing light its days are numbered. - Source: Internet
• Due to the mercury content, discarded fluorescent lamps must be treated as hazardous waste. For large users of fluorescent lamps, recycling services are available in some areas, and may be required by regulation.[59][60] In some areas, recycling is also available to consumers.[61] - Source: Internet
• Fluorescent bulbs designed to replace incandescent bulbs in standard fixtures, such as in recessed lights or table lamps, have all the same features of a fluorescent fixture. Alas, they cannot be repaired… they must be replaced if they become defective. - Source: Internet
• Because they contain mercury, many fluorescent lamps are classified as hazardous waste. The United States Environmental Protection Agency recommends that fluorescent lamps be segregated from general waste for recycling or safe disposal, and some jurisdictions require recycling of them.[3] - Source: Internet
• Any of the main components of a fluorescent lighting fixture can be the source of problems. You may need to learn about fluorescent tube replacement, starter replacement, ballast replacement, or socket replacement. Problems with fluorescent lighting systems are relatively easy to diagnose and solve. - Source: Internet
• Caution! Be especially careful when handling fluorescent lighting tubes. They are quite fragile and contain phosphor and inert gasses. Don’t drop them or let them hit a hard surface! - Source: Internet
• A fluorescent lighting fixture converts electricity into light by making gas inside a phosphor-lined tube glow. The fluorescent fixture is either wired into the house electrical system or plugged into a nearby receptacle. Electrical voltage is delivered to the fluorescent tube by a component called the ballast. When the fixture is turned on, more electricity is needed than during normal operation, so a starter tells the ballast to boost the voltage. Once running, the starter turns off and the ballast maintains the voltage to a lower operating level. - Source: Internet
• Mercury vapor lamps continued to be developed at a slow pace, especially in Europe, and by the early 1930s, they received limited use for large-scale illumination. Some of them employed fluorescent coatings, but these were used primarily for color correction and not for enhanced light output. Mercury vapor lamps also anticipated the fluorescent lamp in their incorporation of a ballast to maintain a constant current. - Source: Internet

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